At Delpozo, master fabric architect Josep Font showed his version of Palm Beach (hot pink, Palm green, madras, linen Bermuda shorts, linen breeches) while also confirming it won’t be enough to simply _wear_ big earrings next spring: they should swim below your lobes like giant jellyfish.
Sally LaPointe’s Spring ’17 collection is, as the memes would say, for the girl who’s gotta be a bird at 10 then either attend the disco or be the disco ball at 11 — which is great, because you know what every post-norcore wardrobe could use even ONE item more of? Feather flumes and sequins.
Tory Burch showed a pretty and pretty literal silk-trade-tinged nautical collection (the clothes were not just wearable but fun to wear — you could style them stranger if need be) docked in New England circa 1962, as well as her sense of humor: those nectarine-sized pearls around one model’s neck were her salute to WASPs and a poke at herself, but when the sailboat print came out I sang right along to the Beyoncé track playing overhead: “Hold up, they don’t love you like I love you.” – Amelia Diamond
Dion Lee has seen we-the-people’s current obsession with the color “Band-Aid” and is prepared to raise us a quadruplet of khaki (as a blazer-dress, as a blazer, as a trench and as trousers), not to mention swing the door far away from the color’s current connection to the Kardashian-Jenners with a quick spliter: the Teva-like sandal, which has the capacity to turn anything sexy (Dion Lee is always a little sexy) into that slouchy, surfer-y, I-Don’t-Give-a-Fuck-y person you’ve always maybe thought you could be. – Amelia Diamond
Baja East answered the question you didn’t know you were you asking — what would a skater wear to a movie premiere in New Mexico? — by deconstructing your dad’s comfy button-downs, adding sparkly fringe to oversize jerseys (!!!), tying old shirts up over silk dresses, pairing crew-neck sweatshirts with lace-trimmed cotton tear-away shorts (like black-tie merch!!!) because what’s more fresh and downtown cool than tired trends turned on their heads by way of little more than a pair of scissors (hi, silk joggers with raw hems) and a can-do attitude (love you, velvet track jacket tugged off a shoulder)? – Haley Nahman
Cushnie et Ochs
If Cushnie et Ochs is for anyone, it’s for women who aren’t afraid to look sexy as fuq and who probably have six different parties to get to uptown later, and for Spring ’17 they’re wrapping those women in silk almost exclusively — long sultry jumpsuits and midi cocktail dresses all cut close to the body with structural surprises (a triangular window to the ribcage is like a window to the heart) and asymmetrical cutouts and a romantic color palette — coral! tangerine! blush! cream! black! — which made my eyes into little emoji hearts because while each piece felt formal and careful, they all looked so easy to slip into. – Haley Nahman
CG by Chris Gelinas is for the woman who believes that northern, southern, eastern or western Manhattan coordinates should have zero affect whatsoever on one’s mindset when getting dressed, because if the subways weren’t made to connect your cross-town/up-and-down life then why else, may I ask you, would it be absolutely imperative to own a transparent peach zip-up over a matching polo (+ biscuit-colored collar), the perfect navy blazer with a triangle of gold buttons, or a pair of bell-flared capris? Hmm?? Exactly. See you downtown at noon for high tea and see above for dress code. – Amelia Diamond
Club Monaco showed a limited-edition ready-to-buy-now collection for fashion week in Grand Central’s Vanderbilt Hall and may I just say that it was my favorite word ever: civilized — because (ha ,ha, Leandra, this is still one sentence!) it was air-conditioned and there were snacks (Milk Bar cookies, loaves of BREAD from an LA spot called Gjusta) not to mention flowers from Putnam & Putnam PLUS…fashion recap comin’ atcha…the clothes were exactly what you want to wear to feel like the put-together person you said you would be by this age but not so perfectly pieced that you feel restricted or uninspired, you know? A good reminder that creativity can happen under great practical coats. – Amelia Diamond
Zimmermann’s one sentence recap could be wrapped in a single word that rhymes with lomantic, but because I’m as long-winded as the dresses were ruffled I feel the need to tell you about the floral prints and lace that Zimmermann always manages to make seem youthful, the slouchy trousers that feel very adult and the peasant skirts plus pirate blouses that will make you wonder whether or not the early 2000s almost had it right but they just didn’t know how to properly channel it…well Zimmermann tuned the antennas just right — I think, MAYBE, — with the help of cupid’s arrow. And possibly Keira Knightley. – Amelia Diamond
Thakoon’s that kid who dives into the cold lake first: He showed Fall ’16 last night in Dumbo, Brooklyn to a crowd dressed for summer and just winding down from a day of seeing Spring ’17 — which made his thick sweaters wrapped around the neck, tied at the waist or as kind-of-capes confusing for the first second and then smart the next…because oh, yeah, right, we’re a few short weeks from crunchy-leafed autumn where we’ll run around saying things like, “I just love fall in the city,” and, “Wait I want to wear Spring runway’s yellow nowww,” and “I wish I had a pair pumpkin half-calf socks to pair with my lace slip that I will layer under knits or short marching skirts,” which is not only what Thakoon gave us (in addition to a grandma-grunge-light vibe) but made available for immediate purchase. Nancy Wheeler, I know you don’t have the internet, but aren’t you so excited? – Amelia Diamond
Creatures of Comfort
Creatures of Comfort was a nice reminder that just because you can’t buy it now doesn’t mean you can’t try it now, and what Creatures of Comfort’s Jade Lai put at the top of our it’s-still-really-hot-out-minds was the idea that big, floaty dresses and bell tops with polka dots can have the sweet factor turned way down with the addition of a pair of lightweight pajama trousers underneath, or by throwing an easy fabric harness over a shift (fine if you LOL’d at “easy fabric harness” but you’ll get me when you scroll). It was cool and unfussy but not for the apathetic, everything I wish I had in my closet for the high 90s temperature predicted for today… – Amelia Diamond
Adam Selman actually took place between Thakoon and Creatures but the above transition from buy it now to try it now was better and it helped this upcoming pajama dressing segue: Pjs happened at Adam Selman too, but they was less of the cigar-smoking-in-silk variety and more in the grandpa’s striped (sheer??) seersucker-esque vein; maybe said grandpa is married to the woman who made the full crochet outfit or, knowing Adam Selman (where things are always less obvious than they seem), maybe the two grandparents used to run some crazy drug ring in their basement and now they’ve turned it into a disco, which is the only place to wear that beaded party dress. Either way, it was yet another lesson that sweet doesn’t have to give you cavities, but it might get you into a whole lot of trouble. The good kind. The fun kind. – Amelia Diamond
At Kaelen, a Wednesday presentation, the CFDA-incubator graduate kept things wonderfully low-key. She showed in her Chinatown studio, offered LaCroix sparkling waters and fortune cookies (put that in an invite and I am there) and let the crowd mingle among the models and the clothes hanging on racks. The clothes: big bell sleeves, big stripes, big grommets that required black ribbon to keep garments upright, plus the softest baby blue faux suede you’ve ever touched in the world — cool pieces for the person who appreciates architecture but doesn’t need to get so heavy about it. – Amelia Diamond
Photographs via Vogue Runway.