Last night’s Katie Ermilio show tied the rush-around day up in a well-knotted bow. (Sorry for rhyming.) Her women are always the ones you want to someday be: elegant and put-together but never stuffy or uptight (they’re chill with not wearing a bra); poised; extremely well-dressed without somehow ever looking over.
Katie Ermilio Fall/Winter ’16, via @katieermilio
She makes party clothes, yes — her dresses yell for occasion. But they’d never demand it. No need to. The thing about a great party dress, like one of Katie’s, is that from the moment you put it on, the festivities have already started.
While we’re still metaphorically uptown: CG by Chris Gelinas. Gelinas is the kind of designer who creates tiny details intended solely for the wearer. The silhouettes, the colors, the fabrics — those are for the audience, who cocked their head at the sight of tailored capris (which are pretty sharp if you do them right, and he did) and then flocked toward the same post-show model-lineup-look: a skirt topped with a bustier over a knit.
CG by Chris Gelinas Fall/Winter ’16, via @manrepeller
PS: if the collection made you think of Audrey Hepburn, then me too.
Speaking of flocking, Zimmermann (how good must that post-Beyoncé-high feel, btw?) was a fun example of my new favorite fashion week game: see what look everyone picks their phone up for. It was a collection of Instagram clothes — eye catching, light reflecting, voluminous, replete with paillettes, “boho” as always and offset by sort-of-punk jewelry/hardwear. Again, sort of: Zimmermann’s punk is no more hard core than front row guest Hilary Duff’s light purple hair, and neither are meant to be. The goal here is pretty. All succeeded.
Zimmermann Fall/Winter ’16, via @manrepeller
Reminding us that exposed shoulders, car wash skirts and, yes, even suede trenches still have life, Yigal Azrouel reworked all three with Little House On The Prairie references (think ruffled calico dresses) and medieval-inspired details, like lace-up necklines and puffy sleeves.
And at Gabriela Hearst, where the outfits were packed with dynamic personality…
There were a few things to try immediately: a slinky slip layered over a tissue-thin henley, a printed button-down/rainbow feather skirt pairing, and flat brogues or oxfords (because there is a difference) used to anchor down party gowns. – Alison Syrett
Photographs via Vogue Runway and Instagram.