Once fashion’s favorite boy band (the Old, Old Guard) broke up, it became clear that style’s compass would no longer point in One Direction. A short hem and a long hem could coexist in the same sentence. Referential decades could intersect in the same season. Trends still trend, of course — how else could one account for fur-lined loafers, trapeze bags and Normcore? — but it wasn’t the same as in our grandmother’s day. We’ll take Fall 2016’s box pleats, but don’t box us in!
That said, after nodding at New York’s spring runway for seven days, one can’t help but notice a few patterns. And you may remember this from middle school, but creating folders for every subject can help you get organized for what’s next. I, for one, needed something to steady my fast-bobbing London, Milan and Paris-filled head. You too? Grab a pencil to scribble notes on your Scantron and don’t forget to sharpen the lead.
In 2017, prepare to see…
Space Clothes for Moon Women
Tome, Area, Carolina Herrera and Creatures of the Wind
It’s a marvelous night for moonwalk: At Tome, Area, Carolina Herrera and Creatures of the Wind, space blankets replaced standard fabrics for swings across the universe or a life on Mars (perhaps in quiet tribute to the late David Bowie?).
Merch Tees for Fashion Fans
Adam Selman, Rosie Assoulin, Alexander Wang, Baja East
Rep your club card-carrying fandom for Adam Selman, Rosie Assoulin, Alexander Wang, Baja East, Hood by Air, Band of Outsiders and so many others with their fashion tees (which you’ll pair with everything) and use your favorite one to lure anyone who asks if you saw them on tour. Did you ever — you’re with the band.
Cake Trimmings for Cake Bosses
3.1 Phillip Lim, Creatures of Comfort, Ryan Roche
Fresh from the oven of 3.1 Phillip Lim, Creatures of Comfort, Ryan Roche, Brock, Jason Wu, Tome and Zimmermann: be the human cake you always knew yourself to be and frost the edges of your hems, decorate your shoulders or soften body harnesses with ruffles big and small, straight out of a confectioner’s piping bag.
You’re a Wizard, Fashion!
Prabal Gurung, Lacoste, Tibi, Rosie Assoulin, Adam Lippes
The sorting hat will see you now but good news, there’s no house of Slytherin, just Prabal Gurung, Lacoste, Tibi, Rosie Assoulin (Gryffindor!) and Adam Lippes. Slip your arms through caped sleeves so your elbows can finally be the superheroes you always dreamed…and you, now properly robed, can attend the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.
One-Sleeve Might Be the New Off-the-Shoulder
Rodarte, Rosie Assoulin and Tome
Finally, Rodarte, Rosie Assoulin, Tome and Rachel Comey answer the world’s most perplexing question: What do you do when you’re a little bit hot but also a little bit cold? They simultaneously prove that, yes, you can still show clavicle while remedying OTS fatigue.
Yellow Will Make Headlines as “The New Orange”
Jason Wu, Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Tibi, Seis Marjan
The play on words that refuses to die is back with a saffron vengeance. Citrus, sunshine, tumeric, orange — whatever you want to call it (marigold??) — is the color for Spring ’17 as per Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Tibi, Seis Marjan and seemingly everyone but (and this may be a stretch), wouldn’t it be sweet if the palette had something to do with the late Bill Cunningham’s fondness for the yellow Ginko leaves that fall during New York’s autumn season?
Skirts Will Pay Homage to the 2000s
Zimmermann, Tome, Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung
My girl Lindsay Lohan will be so happy to know that peasant skirts (and their less ruffled asymmetrical sisters) are back by way of Zimmermann, Tome, Altuzarra and Prabal Gurung, among others. I’m still working through this, but fashion waits for no one.
Burn Your Bras! Go For Over-the-Sweater Boulder Holders
Sally LaPointe, Tibi, Tome, Brock
Bustier tops and underwires busted out at Sally LaPointe, Tibi, Tome, Brock and Jonathan Simkhai. The look adds shape where there may be none, creates definition when there’s more than “some,” is bound to confuse your dad and will make your mom recall her Jane Austin coming-of-age phase.
Country Club Suiting Solves the No Jeans Dress Code
3.1 Phillip Lim, Eckhaus Latta, Tory Burch, Thom Browne, Creatures of the Wind
Denim doesn’t have to be your go-to. In fact, coordinated separates make getting dressed just as easy as a pair of blue jeans and — bonus — they don’t seem to shrink when you’re not looking. 3.1 Phillip Lim, Eckhaus Latta, Tory Burch and Creatures of the Wind proved that a two-piecer is far from stuffy. Thom Browne straight up tricked ya. (Look closely: That’s a dress.) If you really want to have fun with it, go for gobstopper pearls on top like Tory Burch.
Think About Tea Dresses for Champagne Hour
Jason Wu, Marc Jacobs, Creatures of the Wind, Zimmermann
Jason Wu, Creatures of the Wind, Zimmermann, Marc Jacobs (this season: not without controversy) have all invited you to imaginary tea. The dress code is doll-like, sans any complex about having to toughen up your attitude, outerwear or shoes. Enjoy the girly.
Ribbon Stripes: Wear the Rainbow
Adam Selman, Diane von Furstenberg, Rosie Assoulin
If Fruit Stripe was your favorite gum then Adam Selman, Diane von Furstenberg and Rosie Assoulin might have your favorite looks from the Spring ’17 season. Each designer stretched rainbows into ribbons and wrapped them into creations that will remind you of childhood while cheering up your adult wardrobe.
Second-to-Last But Never Least, Your Pants Will do THE MOST
Adam Lippes, Delpozo, Sies Marjan, Rosie Assoulin
Adam Lippes, Delpozo, Sies Marjan and Rosie Assoulin weren’t the only ones to show big pants this season, which tells us something whether the designers got together and intended to send a message or not: The season of going-out tops was all good and fun, but stop making pants an afterthought! They cover your ass, after all. Let them be the main attraction.
And If You Had to Try One Spring “Trend” For Fall: Pants Under Dresses = Easiest to Boast
Creatures of Comfort, Dion Lee, Derek Lam, Rodarte
Creatures of Comfort, Dion Lee, Derek Lam, Rodarte, Gabriela Hearst, DVF, CG, Hellessy (to infinity?) and beyond offered up this trick for you to try ASAP. Keep your summer frocks, add fall pants underneath, put yourself in the blender that is the real world and emerge as a human fashion smoothie. It will feel good now, it will feel good then. I think. You know how trends can be.
Photographs via Vogue Runway; collages by Krista Anna Lewis and Lily Ross.