Saint Laurent Shows Part 1 of Its Women’s Collection in Los Angeles

Hedi Slimane showing ahead of the game


Here’s how fashion week works: first, the contemporary shows happen in New York (of course, with several exceptions like Marc Jacobs, for example), then new talent emerges from London, followed by the storied houses of Milan playing boss penultimately, and then we’re whisked away to Paris to observe and absorb the greatest! newest! freshest! ideas for the season ahead.

The cycle, which feels more like a hierarchy, is one of the precise reasons New York Fashion Week has been taking some heat. The questions circumscribing the event, which started this morning, fall along the dreary lines of: Should we be here? Is it worth it?

How important are the shows anyway?

For as long as the shows are essentially a continuation of what we saw six months ago in Paris, they probably won’t be so important. But such is the way of contemporary: you take the hard ideas, you manipulate them to appear and feel easier without using the dreaded c-word (commercial) and then you sell the garments — ideas generated by the thinkers — in droves. But you don’t need to see that sausage-making happen six months in advance. It’s redundant. You’re not supposed to feel like you want/need/can’t live without a look the moment you see it on a runway. It should feel slightly uncomfortable, possibly raise an eyebrow and provide a long enough cushion for you to take the materials you’ve gathered and reconcile what they’ll mean for you.

What’s cool about Hedi Slimane is that even if you do strike a visceral connection with the clothes upon initial glance (or maybe you definitively reject them — there seem to be two passionate schools of thought here), you can’t quite argue his contribution. You might not agree with the ideas he brings forward, but they are no doubt ideas, and contagious ones at that.

The first women’s look last night included a red lamé button down blouse with a sequined silver skirt and gold boots. A cropped black jacket offset the sparkle. It was kind of 70s — also 80s — and therefore, ultimately, new. The second one was a three-piece suit with a pair of culottes I’d have preferred not to see but the progression was good. Victorian boatneck collars, velvet capes, lamé, printed dresses and one really great feather sleeve that amounted to what Saint Laurent under its current stewardship is really about: the energy.

The question, of course, that all this presents is, what happens now? If one of the pillars of the bang that fashion month goes out with has shown half his cards before New York even started, should we be worried that the bar has been set too high? Is this the point of no return?

The week will tell.

Photographs via Saint Laurent; runway photographs via Vogue Runway.


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  • the pom poms are giving me gucci infused glamour cheerleader. Im into it.

    www. werenotexclusive . com

  • Stephanie

    Love their collection so much

  • Seriously thanks for this! I never really understood why there are 4 different fashion weeks other than the expressed need for multiple venues for the finale of ANTM. The idea that they all kind of function as different parts/points in the process of the industry never even crossed my mind. Because I am a moron. One who is maybe wearing what later turned out to be a maternity dress…

  • Elizabeth Tamkin

    Let the games begin! Also, Hedi’s images are really amazing.

  • Amy Mills

    Team hedi slimane all the way, even despite what appears to be his reluctance to ever shift away from the hair and makeup look of pure rocker-heroin-chic at every show he does (liked it the first time – now the neon eyeshadow has me cringing)

    ++ loved that first paragraph summary. Feel like I truly **get** fashion month vibes now

  • Beatrice

    Slide 7: Sexy Mrs. Claus

    • Beatrice

      Lady Macbeth and David Bowie would sing a duet wearing these clothes

  • I’ll take one of everything, please!

  • Lua Jane

    Being subjective, I have to say that this is the first YSL collection under Slimane I actually liked. Yes it was all about cool kids so far, but alas I am nota cool kid, I’m a woman who likes to get dressed. But seing the collection that has lame, embroidery patterns, fake fur, and all those details, but is based on the silhouette of a line midi skirt and gorgeous boot is what I’m all about this winter. Waist cinching wide belt might become a thing too. Pilati ( I loved his YSL) made it a thing in 2007., so why not again. The embroidered boots are simply precious, and I thing I looked suspiciously like this when I first saw them

  • I love Hedi, I know he has his detractors that his work is a product of good styling not necessarily good design but season after season I have yet to find a collection that I didn’t love. I’m mostly curious if part 2 will be a continuation of part 1 or if he’ll throw a curve ball with a slew of different looks. Either way, this little teaser definitely has me waiting on pins and needles for PFW.

  • Nice show, great glam dresses. Nice post!

    kisses Adela Acanski