Three’s Company: Your Saturday Review

Replete with the fabric musings of Prabal Gurung, Altuzarra and Alexander Wang


Let there be color.

The problem with watching the future Fall/Winter season during the current winter season is simply that no one wants to look forward to large coats and big boots while they’re in them, essentially by requirement, unless they can be approximated immediately. And particularly with this season, where collections are so about the pursuit of warmth, you might even begin to believe that like a climatic anomaly, we are actually being deprived of the relatively imminent Spring/Summer season.

So if that is the case, let there be color. And if you’re looking for color, there’s no further place to look than the dynamic trio that functioned as the meat of Saturday’s show roster.

Prabal Gurung has become a paladin of the red carpet but his Fall 2014 collection proved a proficiency elsewhere: in luxurious, richly-crafted sweaters and neck-paralyzing scarves. Gurung created a unique dichotomy by smartly, not sloppily coupling the very thick heavy upper-halves with light-weight, elegant thigh-baring high-low skirts and bringing a faint hint of the spirit of a traditionally Indian fabric color, orange, to the collection. His more stream-lined garments, like a black blazer, featuring unexpected but well-welcomed contrast rucheing and the final gowns proposed the novel idea of trying a turtleneck for gala season.

Where gowns are not concerned (though the iterations of an Angelina Jolie slit are), Altuzarra continued to champion a very distinct brand identity without allowing his clothing to become predictable or stale. In fact, the collection provided a deep and heavy sigh of relief thanks to his cool use of bright color and quirky piping. The signature Altuzarra unfolded as fine wool knee-length dresses and suits, replete with fringe akin to the kind he championed for Spring. He similarly revealed an update on the mules of last season and placed his stamp on the knee-high boot, mid-length skirt combination injecting new experiments of his own, like a dress and several blouses made from yarn.

Also of note, and I’ve been seeing this a lot: evidently, it is no longer en vogue to wear coats that do not conceal the totality of your hands.

Alexander Wang always makes me think. Last season, it was because of his cotton, pajama-style button downs literally buttoned down and this season, it was because of his impossible-yet-executed boot mules (bules?) and the couple of silk blouses that hearken back to last season’s pajamas but don’t reveal that golden triangle of skin remain concealed with a counter silk.

The show opened to the sound of a purported thunder storm and then his women began emerging from backstage. His boots were strong, like his women, replete with leather rigid as a tree bark. The slick comb-overs and yellow-painted brows on the models created this ironic, slightly meta sense that super models are aliens (and according to Wang, ones that oscillate on a conveyor belt). Though of course, if that’s the case, his urban grey utility dresses, slightly Western suede jackets, thick knits and bright coats make that notion all the more viable.

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  • Kandeel

    I feel like the pockets at wang would come in handy haha

  • Alev Koksal

    The boot mules @alexanderwang are ridicilous that being said, I guess the metal parts are a part of wang’s survival kit

  • Kelly Andrews

    Alexander Wang, you’re killin’ it.

  • Sara

    Love all of the fur!!

  • Prabal Gurung’s collection really resonated with my personal style this season. I like my legs, and his styling shows me how to accommodate my weather needs with my desire to show off (and in your 20’s, why the hell wouldn’t we?).

    Do you think the combination of lightweight fabrics and winter furs have any resonance with how to market the fall collections in the same way as resort? It seems like resort has become so popular not only for the designs shown but the time of year when they hit stores. Maybe there’s a tendency towards making fall collections as versatile as resort for styling and marketing purposes.

    • Leandra Medine

      Fall starts trickling into stores around september/october so you’re certainly on to something in the case of weather’s versatility + faShIon

  • RGDG123

    love prabal