The Paris Fashion Week Dispatch: Day 2

Sartorial time traveling and topless rebellion: smells like Teen Spirit


If you think the 90s are over, think again. Though it’s clear across almost every board that we are obsessed with the era-of-bad-pants-and-plaid (it’s got to have something to do with Jared Leto, no?), Carven’s Henry Guillame really went for it with the uniform use of a black choker highly reminiscent of the plastic tattoo kind we begged our mothers for way back when. He also showed a series of manipulated bright, micro-camouflage prints, digital florals and updated dusters boasting exposed midriffs, short shorts and shoes that really could have been Rocket Dog.

Ah, those were the days.

Even further back in time, Balmain once again proved that the 80s shall prevail. With a selection of neck ornamentations boasting large chain link chokers accompanied by corresponding cuffs, how could they not? While Olivier Rousteing has taken a break from injecting fashion steroids into the shoulder pads of his jackets, no garments are quite as Fabulous with a capital F as his loose-fit trousers, the leather onesies, the sweaters paired with skimpy, crystal, mid-length embellished skirts and, of course, an incredible nod to man-repelling at large in one such utility onesie made of, you guessed it, denim.

In considering the composition of his collection and holding it up against one of say, Dries van Noten, the most discernible difference lies in the latter’s ability to stop a room in motion but make less impact photographically. Where Rousteing really flourishes is creating clothes that one wants to play dress up in and have documented.

At Nina Ricci, which served as one more curious collection to galvanize the art of the female body as orchestrated by a man, Peter Copping stuck to what he’s good at–creating lingerie for women to wear well beyond the bedroom. In a couplet of shirt dresses and the following sequence of sheer, organza, charmeuse and chiffon white skirt and blouse sets (accompanied by youthful innocence in the form of exposed full white underwear and little black ribbons in the models’ hair) and the same standard set in romantic floral prints, it’s hard to pinpoint whether he’s speaking to a female’s inner youth or inner woman.

What’s the difference, anyway?

I’ll also add that two topless women emerged from a row in the audience–half naked–and ran onto the runway yelling until they were tackled and escorted out, so, there’s that.

And just when I thought I’d seen it all, there was Rick Owens. Tell me you’ve seen the show or watched a video from it and then we’ll reconvene for the sake of it being Thursday and our need to Talk About It.

Get more Fashion ?
  • crispusbett

    Yeah the 90’s are definitely not over. Funny as I was thinking of Anna Sui’s first collection in 1991..
    Old is gold:)

  • Le

    Unrelated to post at hand, I just finished reading your book and made the wise decision of surfing this expansive net at hand (book garnered much second hand excitement). Some how stumbled upon your blogspot from your semester abroad. Fucking hilarious to say the least, and it is nice to know that you have always been the magical fish of the present.



  • Harper

    “I’ll also add that two topless women emerged from a row in the audience–half naked–and ran onto the runway yelling until they were tackled and escorted out, so, there’s that.”

    So. funny.

  • Amelia Diamond

    holy crap the necklaces at carven brought me BACK. i remember i would buy those necklaces out of the 24 cent machine (where is the cent sign on the keyboard by the way? can anyone help?) at the supermarket.

    • Kellina de Boer

      Amelia, on the Mac, hold option and press “$” key for the “¢” symbol. Or find it existing online and copy/paste. 😉

  • nicofue

    Rick Owens had the essential stank face… can’t wait to “talk about it”

  • Maui Mendoza

    I’m gonna DIY the shit out of that wrist bag!

  • Melissa

    I personally love all the styles, especially the crop tops, flower prints, and subtle hints of sheer. One thing I am not a fan of is the denim jumpsuits and jackets.

  • Love the 90’s influence, but definitely not the prints!

    Mafalda ❤

  • Will Code For Clothes

    San Francisco Fashion Week isn’t nearly as glamorous as Paris’… but we have the latest wearable tech! (Silicon Valley fashion)

  • Charlotte Fassler

    That rocket dog comment is spot on.

  • I’m loving all the quilted stuff that are pastel colored!

  • Kirsten Bendel

    OMGGGG those prints! I’m a vintage freak and I’ve been obsessing over some of the floral pieces from Dlabeled ( They’re a small Detroit-based online store with taste that is beyond excellent!

  • amiee.hamby

    In love with these looks. A blast from the past at it’s finest!

  • Margret Hunt