In a second and final nod to the collections of resort season, commonalities shared with recap #1 include a bevy of exposed belly buttons (and you know how we–or I should just say I–feel about those), pastel colors and streamlined suiting. Where these collections differ may simply just be in their ability to unwittingly assume the contextual history of their own identities.
Alexander Wang has clearly and successfully, in season two, begun to understand the nuances of Balenciaga’s DNA, case in point: his extravagant short sleeves, the feminine, frilled detailing on his shorts and a small detail like that buckle which sits at the ankle of a pair of pants and makes a fundamental difference in the way in which they fit. (Slides 1-3).
Calvin Klein owns this epoque, so it should be no surprise that Francisco Costa’s resort collection for the season reveals a most striking, digestible, agreeable–but not withstanding highly modern and elegant–nod to what gave the brand 90s clout: Clueless and more specifically, Cher Horowitz. After all, if not for her white sheath, where would we be?
Jason Wu and Altuzarra continue to experiment with the minutiae that have become emblematic of their brands riffing off a theme, in Wu’s case, that is almost impossible not to locate any longer, see: the tomboy. Naturally, it’s done here in the inconspicuously coy, classic Wu way. This, of course, means that in spite of the boxy trench coats and that highly luxurious denim cocoon suit (slides 5 and 6), these clothes are tailored to make every woman feel like she is FLOHOW–First Lady of Her Own World. Altuzarra continues to take slight cues from the west notwithstanding the shock factor so candidly evident in that white, long sleeve, silk lace, knee length dress.
Between Reed Krakoff, Chloe (Claire Waight-Keller’s ability to fuse her take on the historical Chloe is a notable one), Acne and Givenchy, that same play on masculinity vs. femininity in boxy coats, pastel leather, striped suiting, captial D-Denim and one such nod to tangerine orange maintain superior dexterity to piggy back off the soupcons of their previous collections, perfect the handicaps and reveal something new.
Per that one Peter Pilotto look, I have to ask–is this our generation’s answer to Missoni? Even when the prints bear little semblance to the previous versions, they are still so distinctly Pilotto. Rochas follows a particular formula that outlines the marriage of high fashion, high brow evening with utilitarian athletica, Stella McCartney does matches, marigold and mules–and as for The Row, well, you tell me.
Slideshow images in order: 1-3 by Balenciaga, 4 by Calvin Klein, 5-6 by Jason Wu, 7-8 by Altuzarra, 9-10 by Reed Krakoff, 11-13 by Chloé, 15-17 by Acne, 18 by Givenchy, 19 by Peter Pilotto, 20 by Rochas 21-22 by Stella McCartney, 23 by the row. Photos from Vogue.com