Highlight #1: The military dominatrix at Prabal Gurung on Saturday morning, but only because toward the end of the show, her rock hard demeanor (combating and subsequently championing the test of peplum relevance) reverted to a more Gurung-centric angel of divine femininity with those cut outs, that silhouette, that rich white, those sleeves.
Highlight #2: Band of Outsiders. This one is prolific. On the one hand: those hats, made from what looked like knit sweaters tied into sheer 90’s oblivion and strategically placed over a traditional winter cap. The higher, the better, right? On the other hand, however: another example of ankle grazing coat lengths (see: Yigal Azrouel) and a layered suit including gorilla arms. As for the face: red lips really do change everything, don’t they?
Highlight #3: At Alexander Wang, there is always something for everyone and this season placed distinct attention on those of us inevitably North Pole-bound come next fall. Covered heads, ears, hands, even shoes–there’s no wrong way to procure warmth. Though conspicuous here, all models had bright red pony tails clipped into their headgear suggesting that either two-tone hair (see: ombre) is having its moment once more or that red heads have more fun. I think I’m going with the latter. Also worth noting: this is not the only instance in which hand functionality is suspended (see: right gloves). Keep reading.
Highlight #4: Though sparing, still there: the color at Tibi. Amy Smilovic’s girl has undergone a fairly dramatic transformation in previous seasons. What was once a nod to sheer, inescapable femininity has become so wholly emblematic of that which is androgynous, dark, and downright cool, it’s the splashes of green and blue that remind us: at the end of the day, the Tibi girl is still a Tibi girl, she’s just grown up and now reads French Vogue.
Highlight #5: Everything at Altuzarra (including the novel leather jackets cum trench coats) but most specifically, the skunk muffs as exemplified at left–that pelvic belt should not go unmentioned either–and the continuing use of winter white in a layered button look. The collection was fairly reminiscent of Altuzarra’s early work, recreated more dynamically and maturely, if I had to guess the Altuzarra woman is an overwhelmingly successful editrix who may or may not have once run a tiny little baby blog from the comfort of her well-suited bedroom.
Highlight #6: Watching the Derek Lam show in a deep, observational trance. So much so, by the time the finale came around, I couldn’t help think, that’s it? Give me more. The suede and fringe are seeming nods to an older version of Derek Lam but it’s the hip hugging wide leg pants and several, muted-tone silks, leathers, and knit turtlenecks that make this a brand spanking new classic. Buy now, wear forever. Also, the hair. Want yours to look like it? Braid that shit Coolio-style and let it unravel.
Highlight #7: The splashes of leopard print at Thakoon. My relationship with this print is more ambiguous than the one I have with my hormones but I am fairly sure I loved the combination of a small dotted leopard print under an intergalactic floral print compliments by two metallic, calf length boots. Also, the hair: bangs are not for everyone but half bangs might be. This is noncommittal styling at its finest.
And finally, highlights 8, 9, & 10: The shoes! The shoes! The shoes! From left: Derek Lam lace up pointed toe wedge boot, Alexander Wang sweater mule, perfect for that summer BBQ in Green point, Tabitha Simmons for Creatures of the Wind short heel boot clad in obligatory aquatic sock, black and white checkered Altuzarra boot, a cobalt horsehair nod to Plymouth Rock and finally, Cesare Casadei’s shoe boot for Prabal Gurung.