It is always right after New York Fashion Week ends that I remember how similar it is my period. Why? Because like the inevitable red nile drop in, even though I know it’s coming before it does (because of some reliable tell-tale signs), I’m never really prepared. And by the time I’ve been able to lean into the swing of its peculiarities, it disappears without even leaving so much as a note. Not even a little tiny baby Post-It that says, “thanks for having me! Bye!”
It’s cruel, really, but the fundamental difference between the former and the latter is that at least when Fashion Week departs, it leaves lessons and stories and photos to tell of its dalliances and victories and sometimes, even its failures.
In light of the most recent descent and migration cross pond, fellow victims, rejoice! This trend story has got everything: platypus intestine red, girdlenecks (you know, that thing where turtles wear girdles around their necks), suits, plaid, and more bandals. Before I continue, I just want to confirm that you understood that brief, meager SNL Stefan reference re: girdlenecks and platypus intestine red. No? Well, ouch. This never happened.
Starting with suiting in model order we’ve got Tommy Hilfiger, Karen Walker, Christian Siriano (who, by the way is typically far more akin to a more feminine silhouette, see: the ballet academy), 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone, and Timo Weiland. What feels most interesting to note here is that the wide-ranging vibe through all of Fashion Week stayed seemingly committed to obstructing gender stereotypes in a most androgynous nod to the vast places clothing can take us.
Here is a deluge of plaid that maintains the spirit of my previous point in spite of the more common skirts–it all seems very Oliver Twist goes to beauty school. From: Marc by Marc Jacobs, Band of Outsiders, Tommy Hilfiger, Suno, and Jeremy Scott.
And at thigh length: more boots. Spring promised a fairly substantial flux of discomfort in the form of shoes that graze knee-length. Fall followed suit (pun intended, see: trend #1) in both boot length and matters of the discomfort: how, after all, are we expected to maintain warmth through off-the-cuff snow storms in open toe boots and likewise pumps? Maybe like comfort, snow is just a state of mind and if we block the white noise our toes won’t even know the difference. From left: Prabal Gurung, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, BCBG Max Azria, and DKNY.
The other end of the human body promised a generous array of interesting headgear that too maintains last seasons’ ethos: go big, or go home. The afore-discussed sweater turban cum caps (Band of Outsiders) are photographed at immediate left and continue through a rather lucrative misadventure including lamp shades (Oscar de la Renta) and into more conventional rain shielders care of Timo Weiland, Ostwald Hegalson and Ralph Lauren.
In what is perhaps my favorite of the trends: turtlenecks and dickies. What could be a more integral 7th layer for the most thoughtful onion-related endeavors than a lonesome dickie concealing your non-hickey? Sorry, I had to. Photographed here: Altuzarra, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Tibi, Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang.
Meanwhile, on the color spectrum: outside the confines of either very dark color (made absolutely majestic and lush because of the apparent play on fabric and texture, making even the most banal black seem so wildly interesting) or the refreshing, recurring dash of winter white (or beige, which is professedly rather cool again), there was red. A bright red that bled through almost every premier collection in a most striking hue of show stopper. Collaged here, you’ll find: Prabal Gurung, Oscar de la Renta, Creatures of the Wind, Marchesa, Zero+Maria Cornejo, and Marc Jacobs.
Also notable: a glut of ankle length coats and capes. Collaged here: Yigal Azrouel, Ruffian, Rodarte, Derek Lam, Oscar de la Renta, and Band of Outsiders. I do believe this is the first season I have been able to rattle off 10+ trends in a preliminary appraisal. That’s got to mean something, right? In other notables not photographed: many, many short shorts and skater skirts.
And finally, in the most overwhelming, sweeping, and disappointing (only because of the intangibility factor, though) of New York Fashion Week:
Ladies and dillweeds, it is officially Cara Delevigne’s world. We’re just living in it while her supernatural powers transport her from show A to show B in simultaneous lightning speed and full look/makeup. How does she do it, and can I?
Just for good measure, and in case you, too, have come to terms with her immortality and your mere existence as a full functioning human but nothing else, here are some of the most fun accents from various shows and presentations to put a smile back on your face. Fashion is great like that.
From left: The Baudelaire sweatshirt from Ostwald Hegalson, an embellished tie from Creatures of the Wind, the essentially nude girl that Marc Jacobs sent down the runway (we’re particularly keen on this because it seems rather easy–and cheap–to DIY), 3.1 Phillip Lim’s race car matron, Karen Walker’s bow-spenders, a skunk arm baring no need for motor skills at Altuzarra and Rebecca Minkoff’s space t-shirt.
All collages by Charlotte Fassler