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How to Fix the Fashion Calendar? Resort Offers a Clue or Two
06.19.17
Carolina Herrera Resort ’18

I was going to count how many designers showed collections for Resort 2018 because the number seemed overwhelming compared to years past, but I was underestimating how overwhelming that number actually is — after four minutes and a three-digit count that promised no finale, I gave up. I was scrolling through Vogue Runway and genuinely felt like I had slept on an entire season of shows. Then it occurred to me that I kind of did.

It used to be that only a limited number of designers would show during Resort and, back then, the collections were never feature-length (more than, let’s say, 35 looks). If anything, they felt like capsules. But what we’re sitting on now is a full-blown fashion season in which a far more comprehensive slew of designers are participating. On the one hand, I think it’s great: it burgeons in June when the weather is getting nicer and fashion denizens are pulling themselves out of hibernation. That we’re wearing warm-weather clothing and looking at warm-weather clothing (even though we won’t be able to have it for another six or so months) seems right in a way that a lot of what is happening within the fashion cycle does not.

When I was at Rosie Assoulin’s presentation, walking among knit-sweater suits and floral dresses (but also heavyweight coats and dainty sandals), it occurred to me that Resort can replace both Spring and Fall. It has it all: the warm-weather wears, the cold-weather wears and the magical stuff that sits inside the sandwich, which we end up wearing more than anything else in our wardrobes. So why don’t we — the fashion establishment — do that? Just present a collection of this nature twice a year. Forgo the seasons that occur in September/October and February/March; show in June and January instead, condense the four seasons to two (it is only a matter of time before Pre-Fall becomes the same, exhaustive spectacle that Resort has become), have these clothes ship to retailers when they are actually supposed to be worn as opposed to three months before and chill the fuck out on markdowns. I love a sale as much as the next deal-monger, but you know what I love more? Seeing great talent actually maintain a chance at survival in this increasingly cutthroat and quite frankly nonsensical climate. Added bonus: less waste.

I know that retailers demand more, citing consumer appetite, but maybe if we work smarter, not harder, and become a bit more calculated about what we ship and when we ship it, designers could get away without burning themselves out — designing enough to satisfy their creative ids, but leaving enough room to feel excitement when they think about the next collection. I don’t know. Just a thought. In the meantime, there’s a complete guide to the very best (and very subjectively ranked) collections from Resort 2018 in the slideshow below.

Photos via Vogue Runway

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  • Ella MacQueen-Denz

    Completely agree! Thanks for putting that out there.

  • Juliana Salazar

    <3

    • Leandra Medine

      <3

  • The CLOTHES! Those collections you’ve picked are pretty much my fantasies made reality.
    God I want an unlimited budget and a lengthy shopping trip right about now…

  • Diane

    I have always loved resort collections. I mean come on, even just the name is inspiring. The fabrics and types of clothing are perfect for those of us living in climates and lifestyles like Southern California. And I have always felt that the season is a harbinger for what a designer is imagining for the next collection.

  • Hayley

    The green tights in slide 14. Must. Have.

  • Meg S

    Everything in 19 needs to get in my closet. Right now.

  • Katy

    I am dead. Carolina Herrera has slayed me. I never knew I needed to get married in pink polka dots until now.

    • Meg S

      I never knew I liked Carolina Herrera until I read this article.

  • jen f.

    Who is Emilia Wickstead?!? I love everything you posted from that collection.

  • Anonymous

    brock collection is a bit of a snooze fest – or maybe i just don’t get it? can anyone please prove me wrong?

  • OMG the parrot earring!!

  • Alison

    I love the mid-length! And the earrings are phenomenal.

  • Danielle S.

    The black, pink, and yellow Carolina Herrera, in look 20, looks like a dress a modern Disney princess would wear. And I mean that in the best possible way.

  • primadarling.com

    I totally agree having four shows a year is two too many. Believe it or not Resort is the most important collection of the year as far as dollars go for the designer houses. The stores spend typically 80% of their Resort/Spring money in Resort which leaves only 20% for Spring. What’s happened over the years is the pre collections were more commercial for sales and the Fall/Spring show seasons were more about editorial so stores would just sprinkle in a little of the show pieces for excitement, but much of what’s shown on the runway is not even expected to sell. Now the system is not serving anyone, stores, manufacturers and the customer.