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5 Top Fives: Chanel Beauty’s Lucia Pica

She wants you to put red on your eyelids. Promise it’s not a bad idea.

06.29.16
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Chanel’s Lucia Pica will make you reconsider so many things: the bangs you once talked yourself out of, black latex pencil skirts, the time it takes to do your “face” and the antiquated makeup notion that unless we’re painting nails and lips, avoid red.

The new Global Creative Designer for Makeup and Color at Chanel introduced her first collection last Thursday in London — Le Rouge #1 — and right away, it broke the red cardinal rule. Red bled from the center of lips, lined models’ eyes and cherried up cheeks in spots where we’re now so used to seeing bronzer or highlighter.

I imagine Coco Chanel would have been pleased. To her, red was the ultimate sign of sensuality and femininity. Pica took inspiration from Chanel’s interpretation of the color, but pulled a great majority of tonal references from the off-beat: mushrooms and melting wax, “ginger” hair, naked women. It was gloriously strange — the 2016 woman’s refreshed perception of glamour.

“I often talk about deconstructed glamour,” she told me after the presentation. “I do want to look glamorous, and I do want to look polished, but there’s a modernity” — a word she makes fun of but notes we’ve yet to come up with a better one — “that comes with being relaxed about the way you look. Relaxed in terms of texture and in terms of application. Yes to beautiful skin — add coverage, but not too much. Your makeup should look like it’s part of you.”

Pica believes in using makeup to express yourself the same way we use clothes — no use in following a prescription to look like someone else.

“There’s something beautiful about everyone,” she said. “Makeup should be about enhancing that beauty.”

(If you’re shocked and possibly terrified that red is the enhancer, trust me, I was, too. But then she did my makeup.)

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“Take the pressure off,” she told me. Around the eyes especially, it’s not about perfect, sharp lines. “Start with a bit, smudge and blend, then add more if you want.” The collection, which has taupe and brown undertones, really isn’t so scary once you start to see how red makes features…sorry for the beauty word here: pop.

As for the answer to why Chanel, a French brand, would present in London? For Lucia Pica, it’s home — and a place to draw deeper inspiration from. She moved to London from Naples years ago to pursue her career and stayed for the encouraging atmosphere. “There was an individualism that I was interested in,” she said of the city, “And it’s one that I still believe in.”

5 Top Five Time!

1. Top five places to eat in London:

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+Ducksoup in Soho
+J Sheekey Oyster Bar in Covent Garden
+Brawn on Columbia Road
+Trullo on St Pauls Road
+Elliot’s Cafe in Borough Market

2. Top five places to shop and or visit in London:

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+Choosing Keeping, a stationery shop on Columbia Road
+Alfie’s Antique Market
+Momosan, a homewhere store in Hackney
+Alex Eagle, a clothing store on Lexington street
+Fiona McDonald Antiques

3. Top five must-know beauty tricks

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+I like to use a cream colored eyeshadow as a base underneath powder shadows as this adds depth and intensity to the look. It also creates a longer-lasting finish.

+When using a pencil or liquid eyeliner, I run it through the lashes, right at the roots, for solid and intense definition.

+I love to use Chanel Rouge Allure lipsticks for a stained lip (Rouge Noir is my favorite). They are highly pigmented so even a little patted on with your finger is enough to create an impact. Also, its hydrating texture means the color can penetrate the lip properly so it almost becomes a memory of a lipstick rather than looking too done.

+To really intensify the color and texture of a bold lip, I’ll sometimes dust a bright, matte pigment onto of the lipstick with a soft blending. It creates a dramatic effect.

+When applying a foundation base, if you find you have overdone it a little with the coverage, you can always pair it back and freshen the look by massaging a little moisturizer onto the cheeks and any areas of thick coverage. This will bring a feeling of ‘realness’ back into the skin.

4. Top five must-have beauty products:

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+Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof ‘Eros’ (Ed note: When I asked Lucia Pica what the one question no one ever asks her is, and what the answer would be, she said: Q: What makes your eyes so bright? A: Eros.)
+Cold pressed organic rosehip oil
+Goe oil
+Tweezerman tweezers
+Exfoliating face wipes used as a lip scrub

5. Top five things to keep in your wardrobe

+Vintage jeans
+Tailored suit
+Polo neck (or in the U.S., a turtleneck)
+A classic, quilted Chanel bag. (I was recently gifted a red CHANEL Boy Bag, which I love!)
+Trench coat

Meet @Luciapicaofficial Chanel Global Creative Makeup & Colour Designer. #LeRougeCollection1 #ChanelMakeup

A photo posted by CHANEL (@chanelofficial) on

The collection launches July 1st on Chanel.com and all Chanel department and specialty stores. Follow Lucia Pica on Instagram @luciapicaofficial and Chanel on Instagram @chanelofficial. Image courtesy of Chanel.

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  • Rosie

    Lucia Pica… What a gorgeous name. And a beautiful gal to match!

    • Amelia Diamond

      i knowww

  • Natty

    this makes me want to drop everything and head to my local Chanel beauty counter

    • Amelia Diamond

      run!

  • lily

    Amelia you look so beautiful I am screaming in to my pina colada and disrupting the tranquility of the adult pool

    • Amelia Diamond

      Really want a PC now ugh

  • YES you’ve mentioned the majority of my favourite restaurants in London, especially Brawn <3

    • Amelia Diamond

      I want to try them all!

  • sin_plomo

    Wondering how Lucia feels about London post referendum…

    • Amelia Diamond

      :/

  • Senka

    Lucia gives off gorgeous sophisticated grown goth vibes and is girl after my own heart. I experimented with red eyeshadows as a fledgling goth in the late 90 and look wasn’t half bad, although maybe not my best. It’s all in subtlety and blending I guess. Vitalumiere aqua, pirate lipstick and nail polish have been my Chanel go-to’s for years, but I might want to upgrade my Chanel game a bit.

    • Amelia Diamond

      Try it!! Post pics

  • rachel

    Amelia! You look so different (but still beautiful) with that makeup! Always good to have some tricks to switch things up

    • Amelia Diamond

      for real! i felt like a woman transformed

      • rachel

        update: tried this look tonight and I actually love it!

  • so pretty! I her image/look, very Chanel-esque ^_^

    Laila from Townhouse Palette

  • Kate

    Apologising for words like “pop” is so much more annoying than just using the word. Really. This makeup is interesting.

  • Jessicaaaa

    Lucia is so dreamy *sigh*

    • Amelia Diamond

      i spent the whole time like *~**!**!**~*

  • Fran

    During my #goth teenager phase, I got myself some red eyeshadow. When I learned how to use it without looking like I had been punched, WOW. It made my eyes pop so much, it was amazing. Right now I’m (sorta) out of my goth phase, but I still use red eyeliner sometimes (lipliner as eyeliner actually — just make sure not to use it both on your eyes *and* mouth). Really love it.