Saturday Mood: Dion Lee, Tibi and Suno
The cold can’t dampen our spirits!
You should never tour a college when it rains. If you’re soggy and miserable and the tips of your socks get wet, you’ll hate the place no matter how nice the library is. The best time to visit schools is during the golden hour on an autumn or spring day. One satisfying collegiate crunch of your boot on a scattering of foliage is often all it takes for someone on the fence to turn into a hopeful, prospective student — regardless of the library situation.
Fashion week operates on a similarly unfair advantage. Show-goers and their loud social media opinions are undeniably affected by the weather. On Friday, hit by brisk winds under a bleak sky and the haunting threats of some dramatic meteorologist’s warning about the weekend’s risk of frost bite, we were cranky and tired. It was only day 2! But the mood was lackluster. Everyone wondered out loud: if trends are dead, consumers are king, anyone can watch this on Instagram and our toes might fall off, then why are we even here?
Saturday arrived, cold as hell, 19 degrees at 10 a.m. And its teeth were bared, all right, but the day turned out to be all bark. There’s something about the sun.
Sunshine ushered us into Milk Studios for Dion Lee. Everyone thawed once inside, warmed by body heat and thumping beats and shaved navy shearling. Lee went a little less in the way of obvious sex than he has in previous “main” seasons, and the departure was nice. We know he can design (the man is PRISTINE), and we know he knows a body, so maybe now he knows he can play a bit? Or play with bits: chrome bull rings added interest in spaces where buckles might naturally go. Mimicking the hardware O’s were big shoulders and rounded arms — power dressing for the futuristic woman.
At a sun-drenched Suno (floor-to-ceiling windows), it was all very von Trapp family on vacation in Japan: plaid pinafores and pussy bows, navy mink and tartan coats, shirting-wrapped obis, jacquard florals. She who wears Suno is dedicated to the brand so the designers, Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, get to do two things: 1) pack their customers in their suitcases on their journey and 2) have fun, because the fans aren’t going anywhere — not that they’d want to after this collection.
The first half of the third day concluded at Tibi. Designer Amy Smilovic showed Winter 2016 at a venue so open to the outside that natural light seemed to bounce off the Hudson River water and back onto the wire-y (as opposed to fuzzy) sparkle knits. Plot twist! Men walked, too, but it wasn’t a gimmick. It seems to be the way the fashion wind is blowing: style is genderless. If hands raised to take a photo, it was for the clothes (no offense guys, you’re all handsome), which were great. Smilovic is queen of the slouch, the slip dress and truly wearable looks that aren’t so “wearable” they’re boring. You simply want to buy them right away — especially the coats. And the orange-crush sheath that looked like a liquid sunrise. Direct to this consumer, please.
What were we complaining about again?