It’s early, so the assertions are still just that, but man, fashion week is feeling bleak.
It could be the weather: of all the weekends in all the months through all the season, did winter really have to choose this one to remind New Yorkers that February is the step child of Satan? Or maybe it’s the imminent doom lingering over everyone’s head. Now that the CFDA has said it (that is, what role does fashion week play?), we’re scraping to identify our purpose.
To answer that question, by the way, Yeezy’s 90-minute, public-facing fashion event at a packed Madison Square Garden where insiders, critics and fans stood together to view collection 3 yesterday indicated that as a public event, fashion week becomes a nightmare for the claustrophobia stricken who do what they can to avoid Penn Station, or a painfully redundant social media moment that has exactly nothing to do with the following clause:
Clothes are like data points.
Brock Collection showed at Milk Studios yesterday. The brand is poised to become a new shopper’s answer for The Row. “Elevated minimalism,” they call it. And that’s what it is. This season, a cropped mink robe coat paired with jeans presented the question of whether the archetypical Upper East Side mom = the new downtown club kid. The Victorian elements — shoulder ruching and exposed bodices — served as a metaphor, as far as I’m concerned, for the consciousness of a 21st century woman.
The same discernible element of uptightness was present at Creatures of the Wind, shown at an unassuming theater of 6th Avenue on 24th Street with red carpets and stained glass ceilings that looked like they’d been made to complement Shane Gabier and Christopher Peter’s collection. There were some cool sleeves on button downs, which buttoned down, too, paired with straight skirts and knee-high boots. Fur details, like at the top of an A-line dress, tailored outerwear that you’d feel great about meeting your significant other’s parents while wearing, and this one part-dress, part-coat with embellished sleeves that shined in the light reminded you why this show is important so early into the calendar: if it’s an idea you’re after — a new one, a complicated one, maybe even a half-baked one — Creatures of the Wind is where you’ll find it.
And at the other Creatures? That is, those of Comfort, creative director and founder of Creatures of Comfort, Jade Lai, barely accommodated the disheveled woman of yore. On the contrary, this dresser has grown up too: she’s pinning her hair back and choosing sensible trousers in place of unconventional culottes and wearing wool Bermuda shorts, which are such a great idea. But the spirit of her deliberate rumple isn’t lost completely — there are still anoraks and boots that appease that. Which is kind of what I meant when I said clothes are like data points. You can manipulate them to say anything you want.