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Leandra Medine | February 19, 2016

One for the goth kids

More from the American Pillars of fashion, here: Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.

The party comes after the show, or so they say, unless you’re Marc Jacobs — where the party is the show.

Last night, the energy that filled a room that forward-faced a huge white lacquer circle felt kind of exhausted, kind of delighted. It is so rare to leave the Marc Jacobs venue without feeling newly invigorated. Part of that is because you know you’ll never see the same thing twice — but even through that, you’ll recognize stuff; big painted buttons will come up, indigenous silhouettes that might harken back to archive pieces in your own closet will surface.

And if last season was a cerebral albeit ebulliently wacky homage to this country, this season — much darker, still wacky, was far more granular.

When you look at the above pictures, you see goth, right? A call to St. Mark’s place. Huge dusters, platforms that are probably near-impossible to walk in. Huge coats and skirts and sweatpants and crochet knit details that honest to blog make you wonder what spending time inside Marc Jacob’s head must feel like.

But beyond all of that literal stuff, there’s more. That’s the thing about Marc: Like with many of the collections that you see in Paris, the clothes are the conversation starter — an early talking point, the entry gates into a discussion, communication, or even round table about something else.

And last night? Last night I saw a celebration of the industry. The goth movement, a subculture that emerged in the 80s, derived some of its inspiration from the anti-establishmentarianism of punk. Of outsiders at large who refused to, by sheer virtue of their self-honesty, force themselves into the archetypical boxes already being served by culture. So they made their own by not making any at all and in doing that, generated a new movement.

What you find in fashion is an industry of people who were different. Misunderstood. Who never quite got to feel comfortable because their values didn’t run parallel to the people around them — to anyone, really. A group of outsiders desperate to understand what the inside felt and looked like. But then they found each other and built upon one another and shared inspiration and opinion and so it happened that thousands of people, whether actually present or not, emerged from a room at 6:15 last night to sing the song of acceptance.

We are all Marc Jacobs’ goth.

Photographs via Vogue Runway; collage by Elizabeth Tamkin.

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  • THANKS FOR EXISTING MARC!

    xx
    http://www.cherry-mag.com

  • Nicki

    Gotta love the Grunge + Eerie feel! Gives me the same vibe as this Exocet Paris gorgeousness. http://curriculumshop.com/products/exocet-paris-black-backpack

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  • Meg

    I need all of looks 6 & 9. The first ~fashion~ thing I ever lusted after was that abstract rose print Marc by Marc dress that was aggressively pink and had pockets. Also the cause behind my Juergen Teller book collection. https://dtpmhvbsmffsz.cloudfront.net/posts/2014/07/26/53d444b7d13a0705200014a9/m_53db92584845e632b005d452.jpg

  • Elizabeth Tamkin

    At first glance, I generalized like, “every look is so similar” but I think that it’s actually a detailed beautiful show that also is very different from his last, but still in line with the design style we know him for. (Also, I-D/Vice called Marc’s show Tim Burton x Hot Topic)

  • I loved this show. The color pallet, shapes, textures, layers, oversizing. I thought it was smart. I like when a show has character, call her Glamourpuss.

  • Terri

    I love reading your show reviews, Leandra. Always interesting! Loved the show too… Just wondering how I pull off the hair on an every day basis…

    https://thecactusmag.wordpress.com/

    • Leandra Medine

      dnt think you have to do that!

  • Rosie

    I got goth, but more than that, Im getting a clockwork orange, mostly because of the makeup. Intentional?