What is so powerful about influence is that the clout of individual reverberates and peripheral talent gets to reap his or her benefits. Before Gucci punctuated fashion’s new eccentric, there were a handful of designers in Italy quietly doing their part to express the nuances of a version of new fashion. And maybe it was just me who didn’t pay close enough attention, but recently it seems that the interesting stuff in fashion is definitively coming out of Italy. Where Milan once felt a little bit like the orange LifeSaver or the deceased Instagram filter, Kelvin (that is, like the city you engage with only when you feel like you must), it’s becoming an incubator of fresh talent, reminding the misunderstood of its innate authority. The truth about who runs fashion.
Below, three designers to keep your eye on.
Aquilano.Rimondi by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi
“We design for women. Our aim is to enhance their silhouette and femininity playing with the juxtaposition of fabrics, volumes and sartorial elements. We want women to feel free and beautiful in our designs. Confident.”
Standout silhouette: It’s a toss up — a combination of the tailored suits and dainty kinks, like a racerback spaghetti strap, or sheer knee-length skirts.
Marco de Vincenzo by Marco de Vincenzo
“Believe in creativity as I always do. And bet on a special garment, one that will have a value forever, because if the ideas are brave and clear, it will gain value over time.”
Vibe: Groucho Marx once said that your 30s are like the teenagehood of middle age. This makes a lot of sense when you consider that you’ve already built the foundation of your identity but you’re willing to try on new ideas for size. Marco de Vicenzo, with his savoir-faire taps into these ideas, is unafraid to construct new concepts by season, as if his version of the eccentric is a little more grounded in reality.
Standout silhouette: the tea-length pencil dresses that somehow appears neither matronly or boring.
Vibe: Ballerina-cum-stylist who needs a sandwich, pursues said sandwich, gets caught up on bedsheets and linens floor in department store, fancies herself a coat from a duvet comforter, debunks myth of Black Swan.
Standout silhouette: The girly slip dresses — won’t they look great with flat lace-up sandals and sun kissed skin? They do a good job reading rough and cool in spite of themselves. That is, prim and feminine.
Runway photos via Vogue Runway, collages by Krista Anna Lewis.