What Makes Dior Good

Zoom
by Leandra Medine
March 2, 2014
READ NEXT

And what makes “good” good?

Something that seems consistently true of Raf Simons, who has now been at the helm of Dior three fall seasons strong, is that the man loves color. He likes to dress his woman vibrantly. This was true at Jil Sander, a house built on minimalism, too. Why? Because any woman bold enough to wear Dior by Raf plays a leading role in her own life and when she walks into a room, you know she’s there.

The clothes are loud and yet you get the sense that even in spite of that, they whisper.

I am particularly drawn to his use of color as filtered through his more traditional but rich use of grey and black and beige because during this Philo-elicited era, which we can conceivably called The Dark Ages, it’s refreshing to see such opulence.

I suppose that’s mostly because the other thing that seems consistently true of Raf Simons is that he makes good clothes. They don’t have to be “on trend,” they don’t have to be thematic. They certainly don’t play tricks and if you look hard enough, you can find the several decade-old references to Dior-and-beyond. But if you don’t want to look, that’s fine too. You don’t have to. What you’re staring at, after all, is plainly a collection of solid garments.

The show opened softly with black, grey, camel and salmon colored jackets replete with white stitching at rib length. Slowly, color emerged. First as a cerulean throw held over the arm, a bright long red blanket scarf wrapped around one neck, yellow and green mink arm dusters and then what could have been the bravura: an uneven hemmed canary yellow dropped shoulder dress (which appeared like an overlay to a plain white sleeveless crew neck dress) and similar versions (in electric blue and blood orange, watermelon pink and green, respectively).

But the color palette went back before it steered bright again, and by the time the finale looks emerged — three embellished gowns uncannily akin to the ones Simons showed for couture — the question on my mind (which was initially: does a collection need to be inspired by one, divisive thing, to become another?) became: was the line that demarcates couture from ready-to-wear being blurred deliberately? Does it matter?

Like I said, good clothes are good clothes. It’s that simple.

REPLIES
  • Maria

    Amazing show!

  • Oliver Lips

    Once again a stunning collection by Raf! You just gotta love his work.

    http://www.lips2lagerfeld.com
    http://www.lips2lagerfeld.com

  • MShoes

    I like the vibrant colors of the clothes! Just love the shoes! Fantastic!
    http://www.letstalkabout-shoes.blogspot.pt

  • Angel

    DIOR would probably be my favourite fashion house. Even when John Galliano was the designer, the fashion house has yet to fail me as a fashion lover !
    checkout my fashion blog . NEW posts every Sunday , Tuesday,Thursday , and Saturdays.
    http://haute-couture-hippie.blogspot.ca/?m=1

  • http://againstfashion.blogspot.hk/ Ada

    the shoes were pretty interesting but anyways I loved the dresses!

  • Charlotte Fassler

    Raf sure knows how to make a girl swoon. This collection is insanely beautiful.

  • http://fashionmusingsdiary.blogspot.fr/ Miss J.
  • Mattie Kahn

    The casually slung jackets are a particularly delightful touch. This girl does not need a coat check.

  • me

    HOORAY ~! A MR post on Sunday !! What a nice surprise.

    Thanks, Sis : xoxox !

  • http://itzzynitzzy.blogspot.in/ ItzzyNitzzy

    Dior .. Absolute Love :-)
    http://itzzynitzzy.blogspot.in

  • Blake

    Stunning collection. I love the way Raf Simons takes classic Dior silhouettes and makes them more modern. He even added a hint sportswear. Just amazing.

    http://urbanoutfitting.blogspot.com/

  • diane

    Best use of color by a minimalist designer in a major fashion show: The envelope goes to Raf Simmons.

  • Alicia

    This is one of those collections that as a whole doesn’t really have anything new or flashy, and initially seemed like just another take on minimalism. However, looking at each individual piece you can really see the couture and the luxury, and that is unique and new in its own way. And those dresses are just awesome.

  • Matt

    I love the way you encapsulate his genius. Leandra, you give me life.

  • Jessica

    Love the way he started neutral, added some color, then added a lot of color. In a way it symbolizes the way we can slowly start to add more color to our wardrobe during the “Dark Ages.”

  • Rachel

    You completely lost me with that question at the end. Is there an error within that sentence? It doesn’t make any sense to me.

  • Sara Walsh

    What an amazing show XO

    http://www.notamodel.net/

  • Hannah

    Amazing collection!
    xoxstyle.blogspot.com

  • Addison Joel Butler

    “Good clothes are good clothes. It’s that simple.”
    I couldn’t agree with this sentiment more. I’m to the point where I don’t give a flying fart what’s on trend or what’s cool; as long as it looks good and is well made I’ll happily slap it on my pudgy lil’ figure.
    http://www.transmogony.com

  • http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/ Newborn Fanatic

    The colors are so vibrant and pretty!!!

    http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com

  • http://morethanglasses.co.uk More than Labels

    The show was amazing, and for me, a vibrant-colour lover, it was simply perfect! The colour blocks, shapes, colour matching, volume, everything looked really me! So, what else to say?:) Very good insight, Leandra! :)

    thanks for sharing, xx

    morethanlabels.co.uk

  • Serena

    The red scarf is amazing, and I’m also a big fan of the make-up!

    http://www.frenchlysqueezed.com

  • Bella

    Amen.

  • reversecommuter

    I completely agree with you regarding Raf and his Dior designs. I especially love how he cleverly alters a classic piece (short sleeved overcoat), then slides in an uber classic (long gloves), so that it all so seamlessly perfect!
    What was the music like for the show?

    • Leandra Medine

      really, really loud bass-based track that forced your heart to beat real fast my guess is deliberately

  • http://thoughtsofglam.com/ ThoughtsofGlam

    Dior is God, that is all.

    http://www.thoughtsofglam.com