The Much Anticipated Vuitton

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by Leandra Medine
March 5, 2014
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Nicolas Ghesquière delivers

When you anticipate something so greatly, it is almost inevitable that the product of your expectations will let you down. When it doesn’t, you’re probably in the hands of Nicolas Ghesquière.

This morning, he showed his debut collection for Louis Vuitton and the response was one universal — real time and digital — gasp of exquisite disbelief.

Disbelief because no one had to manage their expectations. The collection delivered more than it needed to, even in spite of it being completely devoid of spectacle from a house that has pioneered the performative aspect of fashion week. There were no train tracks, or carrousels, or escalators, just white floors and clothes. And here’s the thing about the clothes: they didn’t do tricks or play games or try to revolutionize the way women dress. They just whispered Ghesquière’s name in the kind of jovial way that sings: I’m ba-aaaa-ack!

With their broken apart shoulder lines and their high waisted A-line mini skirts and burnt orange and black contrast, the clothes could have told you they belonged to the prodigious designer from any vantage point — even through the manipulated lens of an Instagram photo, which is where, from my bed in New York, I watched the show.

Actual garments aside, here’s thing I’m trying to understand. Is it appropriate that I could see the entire collection and reap the intrinsic benefits of having been there from 4,000 miles away? I saw Cindy Sherman sitting front now not far from Azzedine Alaïa or Christian Louboutin. I saw the show notes — his love letter to his new partner and an admirable and respectful hat-off to the house’s old love, Mr. Jacobs. I saw that Chloe Sevigny stood backstage with Mr. Ghesquière. I heard the music. I saw the way the clothes moved. The way they cloaked Freja Beha’s body and the adrenaline they put in her step.

When it was over, I thought about what a shame it is that they’ll be so difficult to obtain (just looking at Vuitton’s clothes feels expensive) but then I stopped to think that maybe 100 shows deep into the last leg of fashion week, there’s something really impressive to be said about leaving a venue (or locking an iPhone screen) and still feeling excited and impulsive over the prospect of new clothes.

Does this mean the spirit of fashion week still lives and as such functions as a template to push consumerism, or am I still high from experiencing the clothes through a portal that bastardizes the true intentions of the season? Does it even matter? Like in the case of one Raf Simons, good clothes are good clothes — it’s that simple.

REPLIES
  • Elisa Taviti

    Really great post!

    My Fantabulous World

  • EmmaM147

    Love this collection!

    Emma x

    http://www.beautyandrags.co.uk

  • Quinn Halman

    GREETINGS FROM INDIA!
    after being in this country for almost week, i really appreciate how nicolas (first name basis, whatever) used that flower-y print! this is a really crisp, clean, and nice collection of clothing

  • Ching Llera Vilar

    Lovely collection. I love how the clothes stayed true to the brands aesthetic but he made it modern and fresh by putting a semi good ol’ 90′s vibe. Bravo Nicolas!

  • Perry

    Freja back on the runway!

  • http://adeliberateimagination.wordpress.com/ CJKEYS2

    I can usually tell within the first sentence or two who writes each post ( since we’re SO CLOSE!), but this one was tricky. I first guessed it was the extremely talented offspring of you and Amelia, but I think that is scientifically impossible. ANYWAY, great post, happy Wednesday.

  • Mims

    Yes to Nicolas Ghesquiere!! His voice is utterly unique and it always feels as if his clothes are coming from its own universe. So good.

  • Tamires

    This collection is amazing! I want every single piece of it!!!

  • ohcommon

    This is absolutly ugly. this is so ugly I have nothing else to say nor can I elaborate.

  • Savannah

    Leandra, can I just say I’m so happy your blog exists? It never disappoints. NEVER.
    I watched the Louis Vuitton show from my bed this morning as well (livestream is such an invention) and checked with instagram at the same time to see what everyone had to say about the clothes. The rest of the day I spent waiting for a proper review, and pondering over the question ‘Is fashion criticism really gone?’. I’m currently back in bed, doing some reading before going to sleep. Of course, I go and check your blog and there it is! The article I’d been waiting to read all day. So thanks!
    Needless to say, I loved the collection as well. He did a great job. In my opinion, the only way to make a fresh start at LV was to do exactly the opposite than MJ, which is also why I already had a feeling there would be no bombastic decor this time. Almost as if to say ‘Look, we don’t need a big show. It will only distract attention from the clothes.’ Well, if they’re that good, I couldn’t disagree with him!
    X from Holland

  • Raquel (fashiongrillblog.com)

    Seriously, Leandra, you should write for the New York Times – you’re just amazing. And you say what everyone is thinking. Hats off to you babe! :) xx

  • Erica M

    I am in love with this collection! The sharp prints and the sleek designs, absolutely gorgeous! It’s a whole new take on sexy and business!

    Erica’s Edition

  • Charnie

    An incredible collection! Love it x
    http://www.globaladdictions.blogspot.com

  • Tracy Wingrove

    Yeah, except when they’re not…

  • claritt

    So, i get that fashion isn’t always about reinventing the wheel, but i just didn’t feel anything when i flipped through these images. Usually, for me and I’m sure for others as well, fashion evokes something… this didn’t do it for me. i thought everything was very Ghesquiere, but he hasn’t gotten into the Vuitton zone yet. i thought the accessories were beautiful, particularly the belts and bags… the clothes weren’t anything special… nothing i would save up for, and (going back to your Zara post,) nothing id be happy to buy in Zara either.

  • http://www.thegivingkeys.com/ The Giving Keys

    Love the belts and the burnt orange!

  • dani

    why does almost every model look like a midget?!?

  • FIONA BROOKS

    shes my favorite model

    ever!

    Love her look!

    Great post!

    http://www.fionabrookslifestyle.com

    FIONA.

  • http://www.lezu.com/ L’ezu

    The entire collection is so incredible, love it all! The structured crocodile pieces are everything… http://www.LEZU.com

  • http://thoughtsofglam.com/ ThoughtsofGlam

    I love the amazing clean cut lines, they’re so simple yet timeless and work to create a statement about your whole ensemble

    http://www.thoughtsofglam.com

  • Helena

    The models are soo thin!!

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