Let there be color.
The problem with watching the future Fall/Winter season during the current winter season is simply that no one wants to look forward to large coats and big boots while they’re in them, essentially by requirement, unless they can be approximated immediately. And particularly with this season, where collections are so about the pursuit of warmth, you might even begin to believe that like a climatic anomaly, we are actually being deprived of the relatively imminent Spring/Summer season.
So if that is the case, let there be color. And if you’re looking for color, there’s no further place to look than the dynamic trio that functioned as the meat of Saturday’s show roster.
Prabal Gurung has become a paladin of the red carpet but his Fall 2014 collection proved a proficiency elsewhere: in luxurious, richly-crafted sweaters and neck-paralyzing scarves. Gurung created a unique dichotomy by smartly, not sloppily coupling the very thick heavy upper-halves with light-weight, elegant thigh-baring high-low skirts and bringing a faint hint of the spirit of a traditionally Indian fabric color, orange, to the collection. His more stream-lined garments, like a black blazer, featuring unexpected but well-welcomed contrast rucheing and the final gowns proposed the novel idea of trying a turtleneck for gala season.
Where gowns are not concerned (though the iterations of an Angelina Jolie slit are), Altuzarra continued to champion a very distinct brand identity without allowing his clothing to become predictable or stale. In fact, the collection provided a deep and heavy sigh of relief thanks to his cool use of bright color and quirky piping. The signature Altuzarra unfolded as fine wool knee-length dresses and suits, replete with fringe akin to the kind he championed for Spring. He similarly revealed an update on the mules of last season and placed his stamp on the knee-high boot, mid-length skirt combination injecting new experiments of his own, like a dress and several blouses made from yarn.
Also of note, and I’ve been seeing this a lot: evidently, it is no longer en vogue to wear coats that do not conceal the totality of your hands.
Alexander Wang always makes me think. Last season, it was because of his cotton, pajama-style button downs literally buttoned down and this season, it was because of his impossible-yet-executed boot mules (bules?) and the couple of silk blouses that hearken back to last season’s pajamas but don’t reveal that golden triangle of skin remain concealed with a counter silk.
The show opened to the sound of a purported thunder storm and then his women began emerging from backstage. His boots were strong, like his women, replete with leather rigid as a tree bark. The slick comb-overs and yellow-painted brows on the models created this ironic, slightly meta sense that super models are aliens (and according to Wang, ones that oscillate on a conveyor belt). Though of course, if that’s the case, his urban grey utility dresses, slightly Western suede jackets, thick knits and bright coats make that notion all the more viable.