May I just say, in a format popularized by a fictitious character that Bill Hader famously played on SNL, that the hottest nightclub in town is — seriously — Lincoln Center. At least its redesign, possibly a response to the criticism Lincoln Center has accrued for perpetuating the existence of the much-debated peacocks of Fashion Week, would suggest so. The hub now includes a dizzying maze of black walls that lead through an extensive electronic check-in station and this morning, it opened its doors to the initiated spectators, stomping in from several directions with one, uniform cause.
First, there was BCBG Max Azria, which tends to function as a marker for the trends to watch through the duration of the New York season. On tap for this round: a generous selection of shin and knee length skirts (and in one instance over pants), dresses and culottes in pinstripe as paired with knee length boots — evincing the spirit of a really, really well dressed elementary school teacher. The use of grey and beige stripes loosely hearkened back to Native American inspiration while the whimsical pops of turquoise, yellow and red stripes kept the collection firmly positioned in the scope of BCBG’s DNA.
Highlight? One particular suede and shearling coat, which from a front angle appears cropped but from behind, cascades down to the floor. It begs the question of whether you’ll forgo thigh warmth to allow your hamstrings a tango with that which is toasty.
At Richard Chai, the skirt length remained on par with the hemlines of BCBG, testing several more uneven variations and including a wider selection of pants — most of which printed in dark based florals or tonal stripes. For women, the easy, no brainer attitude and that nod to the 90s in the form of two separate wool t-shirts worn over long sleeve thermals is seductive. But where this collection succeeds is its articulation of the way a man should dress. Take that brown and teal striped suit fastened under an overcoat or what comes next: a navy suit replete with a burgundy blouse tied and worn around the waist almost as though it’s a skirt — doesn’t it make you think: I could be that guy?
They say real genius is measured by how accurately one can break down the complex but maybe too it can be measured by how starkly simple, in spite of brilliant layering, a fashion week look can appear. Creatures of the Wind provided this dose of intellect that has almost become endemic in the brand. You look at these clothes and you squint — you have to think. You wonder how you’ll approximate what you’re seeing, why you’ve not given as much though to waist belts and ankle length coats and a wool near-maxi skirt that seems so easy but also so new. Then you’ll catch wind of the butterflies patched into two separate lapels and suddenly, the creatures portion will make perfect sense.