Growing Up Paris

Zoom
by Leandra Medine
February 27, 2014
READ NEXT

You think you know, but you have no idea. The good news is: neither do I!

If Wednesday and Thursday in Paris were a Drake song, and we’d started from the bottom, “now we here” would probably just be a place referring to in more grown up skin.

For a designer like Alessandro Dell’Acqua, who is now at the helm of Rochas (and his own brand, No. 21), this would be a vague transition that spoke more to his wanting to recognize the DNA of a brand with relatively mutative genes than anything else. To understand why his a-line skirts and oniontastic layers of gown lengths under tea-lengths in mature and slightly sinister florals and large slouchy robe coats appealed to the initiated onlooker is to understand that former artistic director Marco Zanini’s influence still runs through a selection of the clothes.

Not everywhere, of course — Dell’Acqua practically wrote the book on embellishment, but on the topic of leather dish gloves: well, leather dish gloves.

I received a text message from my friend right after Anthony Vaccarello to ask me why I’d never worn a long, chunky turtleneck beneath a tight mini skirt. The reason could have been obvious: who wants extra padding to coat the space between a woman’s ass and her skirt, but far more telling than the actual question was her asking it.

A good designer makes you think. A great designer convinces you that no matter what the circumstance, you could be his girl. Which is how I continuously find myself feeling at Vaccarello. But maybe that’s not a note about me — maybe that’s simply a nod to the shifting perception of that which makes a woman feminine and strong. Leave the tea skirt at home and slip into a cut out leather number.

Or, you know, don’t.

Dries Van Noten will still be next door, ready to provide the whimsy you crave even if this season it’s slightly exaggerated. His embroidery and stripes on men’s coats as coupled with ankle grazing skirts and separately, FUPA pants, remain the signature skeleton of his collection but with a whole new slew of colors on prints — orange, yellow, pink and so forth — and ideas (“Ibizan psychonaut,” Tim Blanks wrote) to boot. So much so, in fact, that the sunglasses have become an even more pungent marker of his presence.

Or something like that.

BYE!

Images via Vogue

REPLIES
  • http://mafaldadotzero.blogspot.fr/ Mafalda

    I just love the Antony Vaccarello shoes, they’re sublime.

    Mafalda ❤
    http://mafaldadotzero.blogspot.fr

  • http://thegirlwiththepaintedpout.blogspot.com/ Lavinia E

    i agree. when a designer is expert at his/her craft, you can always picture the assumed “self” great post

    i write fashion columns.

    http://thegirlwiththepaintedpout.blogspot.com/

    https://www.bloglovin.com/blog/11514631

  • Charlotte Fassler

    Next polar vortex I’m opting for some Dries to feel like an amalgamating of a Hawaiian vacation and a Bridget Riley op art piece even in the dead of winter.

    Also dish gloves. Conflicted, but I sure don’t feel bad about them…

  • Cathleen

    I wasn’t thinking dish gloves until you mentioned it and now it’s all I can think! The yellow ones are really toeing the line between chic accessory and just-ran-out-of-the-house-and-forgot-to-take-off-my-dish-gloves. At least we know we can recreate this look on a budget with just a couple dollars at the local drug store! But really though, I need the red ones in my life.

    http://cathleenwrites.wordpress.com

  • Ingela Persson

    Fantastic – I’ll start wearing dish-gloves on my scooter when it rains, I” be super chic :-)

  • http://www.chicmadesimple.com/chic-tracy/ Tracy

    I agree with Mafalda. Great shoes!!!

    http://www.chicmadesimple.com

  • Angel

    Love the colors and structure of his pieces !
    check out my fashion blog. NEW posts every sunday , tuesday,thursday and satursdays.
    http://haute-couture-hippie.blogspot.ca/

  • AshCast

    While admit- the leather dish gloves were a bit over the top, I always look forward to what Alessandro Dell’Acqua brings to the table. I was thrilled to see what he did for No.21 and Rochas has made a beautiful transition since he took over.

SHOW MORE COMMENTS