Is the test of good design measured in whether the creator can put together a good knit? Maybe — and if that is the case, three designers who showed yesterday flexed their knitting muscle to display what is comfortable and wearable though still insurmountably aspirational.
Victoria Beckham took the 10AM time slot, showing not just her deeply attractive husband and the genetically blessed offspring that have been manufactured as a result, but her understanding that if she were to continue of the tomboy trajectory of last season, she’d better cut the tom.
This season revealed many more streamlined silhouettes starting with a couplet of black and white menswear coats, both with feminine gold chains as closure. These gold chains were a motif that continued through the collection as a belt above a poplin white turtleneck and below a meme-color mini skirt.
And so was the infusion of something feminine. Baggy trousers were met with crew neck t-shirt style silk crepe tops that came with several small layers of organza peplums or an ankle-length, black and beige skirt that almost detracted from the upper knit mock neck.
Though Delpozo told a different story, at least it was a good one — purportedly about a feminine woman who recently got her hands on a copy of The Matrix and brought that forward in a blush, full length cape that unwittingly continued to reveal the nuances of her personality.
She likes culottes, for one thing and doesn’t discriminate against fabrics. She’ll wear a sheer underlay if it means concealing her shoulders the way an eccentric football player might and there is a sense of unmitigated confidence about her because she knows she’s best dressed.
Where the wow effect works, at least. If we’re going to talk insouciantly best dressed, Derek Lam is a much better point of reference with his unassuming blue and grey coats and skinny suede pants — and the jumpsuit, oh the jumpsuit — and t-shirt-like blouses that maintain contrasting necklines and layers of knit and torn apart-then-re-sewn silk as black tie attire.
Derek Lam is a designer who is aware of his strengths and as such leverages them to create not tricks or spectacles but simply Good-with-a-capital-G clothing.
And then there is Thakoon, with his smart use of bright color and the layering of angora capelets over silk blouses and tea length skirts or thick knit scarf-cum-sweaters and neckerchief blouses that tell of a positive deviation from last season’s patent leather and pearls. Most powerfully, his message remains consistent. He is dressing a girl interested in the pure fun of fashion.
So, Six Flags, anyone?