If one word could successfully sum up Friday, the word is eyebrows. I might gloss over the various stringy, messy and predominantly blond comb-overs but in the only place where clothing was not concerned, it was, as they say, “all about the eyebrow.” We’ll get there though — first, show notes.
Starting with one Peter Som.
The vibe was Margot Tenenbaum marries Alexa Chung, hightails it over to Portobello Market to accrue a wide selection of vintage leopard furs, pairs them with the most majestic Chelsea boots (compliments of one Mr. Louboutin) and asks Peter Som if he could please, please, pretty please, infuse his signature wit, taking into account their inherent, respective aesthetics, everywhere else.
Som is always very good at dressing a woman like she errs on the side of playful though never compromises her sense of feminity. Where he really won with this collection was in his closing black based floral gown-style skirts that appeared as the finale in a beautiful gradation from innocent to experienced and also included feather peplums. The smart layering of knee length, short sleeve trenches with long sleeve, slightly longer shirt dresses was a theme that ran parallel with several subsequent collections.
At Jason Wu, I had to question my ability to call myself a woman. Isn’t that always what a strong designer does? Hone in on what he or she does best and render what you can do obsolete — no matter, ultimately, how good it is outside the confines of a runway. The palette encompassed a selection of muted colors — brown, putty, teal, faded, deep purple and the clothes told a consistent story that started with shin length, lightweight silk and velvet skirts paired with large sweaters and turtlenecks and continued with cool, waist length shearling coats against longer, more streamlined masculine coats as coupled with pants that are seemingly designers for the world’s tallest women.
Eyebrows ran plenty at Rebecca Minkoff, paired with dark, plum colored lips. Her clothes were easy on the eye, as they always are, and evinced that sense of, I can walk out of here in these clothes and feel entirely comfortable. It’s been impressive to watch Minkoff grow her empire and allow for the clothes to speak to her personal trajectory. This collection took a turn for the more masculine, implementing boxier coats and forgoing the wrath of darting. There were jumpsuits and swing-shaped cropped trench coats as well as a two pair of suede drop crotch trousers I like to believe she designed with myself in mind.
At Rag & Bone, Marcus and David played with brown, — another salient motif this season — splattering it across white jeans and jackets. There were also hints of army green and a darker hue of the same color and they did not omit a generous pop of red in the rainboot-cum-it shoes that spectators likely wished they were wearing then and there.
The most fun details came care of the shearling mules and the embroidered bomber jackets inscribed with the names of the models who wore them. Arguably my favorite styling technique, though, was a more insouciant one from within. See, there were thermal tights worn under culottes and lengthy skirts that hearkened way back to my tenure as a Yeshiva Day School student. And there’s nothing like the spirit of modesty and a deep sense of will-to-survive in the wake of frigidity to make a comment on modern, forward-thinking fashion.
BOOM SHAKA LAKA. TTYL!