Pre-Fall has a way of sneaking up slowly. The collections begin trickling in late in November, then more steadily through December, interrupted by the distraction of those pesky holidays but not deterred by them, because fashion never says die.
Now that it’s well into January and we’re back into the swing of that which swangs, Pre-Fall has resumed its resilient if not seasonally inappropriate head. Although relatable in regards to the current weather outside, the concept of this half-way season tends to flummox those of us who don’t shop proactively (because when a sherpa coat finds its way into my shopping card mid-May, what the HELL I am supposed to do with it until winter, especially when considering my apartment is no larger than a flea?).
That said, lack of practicality or application is but a mere hiccup when enduring a love that knows no bounds (see: fashion, or alternately Kanye & Kim), and so without further adieu let’s recap some Pre-Fall.
The aforementioned sherpa coat was, naturally, a reference to the brilliant puffed monstrosity of peach fuzz, red piping and Abominable Snowman shearling as seen at Chloé. Equally as heartbreaking were the above-the-knee boots that likened models’ legs to the trunks of very elegant trees, what with their parallel lines and disregard toward’s societies strange aversion to the kankle. The rest of Clare Waight Keller’s collection is a study in expert styling: ruffles layered under knits and blazers, baggy trousers slouching over ortho-chic sandals, and blues and oranges checkmating their neutral counterparts.
If I were to read into Riccardo Tisci’s decision to set his Pre-Fall collection against a snow-dusted New York City block (let’s play a game in the comments below and guess which street you think this is, btw), then I would tell you that it’s a nod to the elegant, successful urban woman who eschews this city’s stereotypical black monochrome and yet understands the power of an underlying dark palette. But since I don’t like reading into things, let’s just marvel at those perfect, perfect shape-and-color-blocked pants.
Nina RicciNina Ricci Pre-Fall is every bit as ladylike and lovely as the woman for whom the clothes are intended. The collection features the label’s signature knits, laced bits and feminine dresses, toughened up by navy leather, a boucle biker jacket and a silvery-blue coat that resembles cracked potter’s clay. What caught my eye the most, however, were the pink silk pants with green brush-strokes of what appeared to be wheat, and its sister of a long-sleeved dress with a ruffled flower in full bloom.
It was all about the shapes at Acne, with the standout pieces being those that had volume. There were green muppet mittens, a teddy bear two-piece, a split-toned coat over a simple white turtleneck and if you’ll look to the right you’ll see a sculpture of wind-blown fabric cocooning two black lacquered legs. Another shape throughout (as you’ll see in the slideshow) were the somethings reaching upwards (printed on the clothing and hinted at on the shoes), but whether they were intended to be hands or flower stems, well…what do you think they are?
Last but not least (because he technically showed in December) is Joseph Altuzarra’s first Pre-Fall collection. As with Chloé there were large hits of orange and blue, though his took on a more autumnal palette of pumpkin, navy and cheddar-cheese checks. The silhouettes remain true to his aesthetic: tailored, thoughtful, and undeniably sexy. The real talent, however, is that he managed to pull off tartan as a pattern new to our eyes, somehow refreshing even after a full circuit of holiday plaid.