Cloaked in Coats
Pre-Fall’s second dispatch tackles the cherry equivalent of your winter look
It is a universal truth, chiefly perpetuated by the fashion show seasons that inform what one should wear come fall and winter, that in the event you’ve resolved to buy nothing new save for one nice coat for the upcoming season, you will likely also not need anything else that is new.
This has not always been the case. Historically, coats have been toppers, the Maraschino cherry above an ice cream sundae constructed from female style. And without the ice cream, what is the cherry other than a genetically modified, highly processed and likely cancerous sugar semi-fruit? Nothing good, that’s for sure.
But as far as we can currently tell, coats don’t give you cancer, so that’s phenomenal non-news when considering the role they play in a) generating warmth, b) aiding the quest to wear nothing but the same jeans and sweater all day everyday without being judged and c) evincing that spirit of effortlessness we like so much.
Where The Row is concerned, fashion is never about appeasing trends but in the case of Pre-Fall, it is also, seemingly, not necessarily about offering garments that don’t maintain the life span (nine in all) of a cat. An ankle-length trench coat will be as relevant next season as it was ten years ago and will be ten years from now.
Likewise for the multiple masculine blazers Linda Rodin fashions, and as for that black swing coat: show me a back that does not appreciate the silhouette and I will show you my nail-less pinky toe. The predominantly black, camel, navy and grey collection speak to the spirit of a woman with a capital W who is neither interested in standing out or appearing anything less than indispensably elegant.
On a similar chroma scale (save for a cerulean kicker), Max Mara continued to flex its protruding outerwear muscle, unassumingly recreating coats that have already existed (traditionally knee length and single breasted, bell body and sleeves) and succeeded for seasons. Thom Browne forewent the sense of timelessness evoked in both The Row and Max Mara’s collections and instead interspersed the colors of his stamp — the red white and blue stripe — into several different offerings that pack a punch and beg the question: How often is too often to wear such an ocularly blaring coat? (For what it’s worth, the answer is doled too: No such thing.)
Where there is more color, more menswear and a selection of refined, motorcycle style short jackets, Tibi is further redefining that which falls under the contemporary umbrella, announcing more pale pink and green. In Lanvin’s luxurious, feminine default, the outerwear can almost be mistaken for a formal sweater with a large-skirted overcoat and floor length, short sleeved cloak. There are sprouting seeds of menswear too.
But it’s at Maiyet where the mundane seems the most fresh. To play with just white poplin blouses and long black trousers covered in cropped, slim jackets and houndstooth hoodies and make it seem innovative — that’s pretty cool.
Cool enough, at least, to wear a coat.
Images via Vogue & Style.com