Trends on Trends on Trends

Your guide to the most sweeping style cues as evidenced by New York Fashion Week

Even though London, Milan and the penultimate Paris often provide more prolific intel into the immediate future of fashion, one thing you can always expect from New York Fashion Week is an extensive lay of the land. The groundwork that will foretell the nuances of future seasons, if you will.

After all, without this city – our City – how would we know to keep an eye on bright lipstick, or low slung Bermuda shorts and pants, fringe details and fabric chokers? The simple answer is, we wouldn’t.

Arguably more interesting this season, though, is that in spite of a few recycled-but-new trends of note, most of what was sent down the runways appeared more like a continuation of past seasons than it did the surge of a brand new one. This is, of course, good and bad.

Good because for the first time in a long time, the clothes are perhaps unwittingly submitting that you don’t need to participate in every single season in some tangible capacity in order to adopt the gist. The subsequent assumption there is that the clothes are about the pure fun and artfulness of fashion rather than the consumption factor. It may be rendered bad, though, because at the start of every season, when the inevitable question – what are you expecting? – is asked, our answer is always, the unexpected.

We’re eager to make due with the hand we’ve been dealt though, so let’s swim on.

FRINGER

While hints of fringe have been imbued in the likes of Saint Laurent’s previous collections, no where has it been as salient as it was at the Spring/Summer 2014 New York shows. While Altuzarra showed it cascading down his model’s chest line in the prototypically Western suede, Calvin Klein, Tibi, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Marc Jacobs opted to use softer, lighter weight fabrics to create movement in their garments. What seems most interesting here in that in suffusing the trend into these collections, their outcomes are fundamentally different from one another – Calvin Klein’s fringe calls to mind an elderly woman’s astute knitting pursuits while as previously mentioned, Marc Jacobs is all about the ornamental throw pillow.
rounded shoulders

And with those throw pillows come visibly rounded shoulders which, uh, made their rounds during this past season as well. Photographed here you’ll find examples from Proenza Schouler in soft beige, Michael Kors in a tougher cognac-colored leather, Prabal Gurung in electric blue knit, Delpozo, with its sheer paneling and ethereal aura and Victoria Beckham, whose version looks slightly more like an oversize mens coat than it does a cocoon.

skirtpantscollage

At Sass & Bide, The Row, Theyskens’ Theory, Richard Chai and Steven Alan, a nod to skirts worn over pants called back to mind the previous Fall/Winter collection of Dries van Noten, in stores now and continuing to endorse the combination of not a short, flared peplum-style skirt with pants but rather the more recently popular straight mid-length version.

Chokers

In another nod to what is new but only in that it’s taken inspiration from the previous seasons, the thick metal chokers of collections’ past are now back and appearing as Isabelle Duncan style fabric choker-cum-neckerchiefs which actually bear a more nostalgiv semblance to The Girl with The Red Ribbon. (When she takes it off, her head falls off). Photographed here: Marc by Marc Jacobs, Creatures of The Wind, Ostwald Helgason, Cushnie et Ochs, Prabal Gurung and Tracy Reese.

Lavender Collage

Meanwhile, where color is concerned, Prabal Gurung, Misha Nonoo, Wes Gordon, Phillip Lim and Rag & Bone put one foot forward in favor of lavender – a nice segue from the additional pastel colors now emblematic of the fashion-sphere but far enough to hold its own beyond the obvious pale pink, blue and green.

flatshoes

In news that will be terrific to relay to the shoesmiths at Birkenstock and the wearers at Fashion Week, for the first time in a long time, several shows this season provided a slew of models wearing flats and only flats. And beautifully ugly ones at that. Photographed here are the iterations from Marc Jacobs, Phillip Lim, Creatures of The Wind, Band of Outsiders and Oscar de la Renta.

lowslungboardshorts

We reckon they’d pair terrifically (send ‘dem men running!) with the low slung, California-inspired board shorts of the season care of Phillip Lim, Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger and Suno.

culottes

Those low slung shorts are different from culottes, though, which were also a trend near and far at Tibi, Alexander Wang, Creatures of The Wind, Adam Lippes and Proenza Schouler. Remember that love letter Amelia wrote to exposed ankles just before the initiation of fashion week? Yeah.

deep V collage

Another trend we really enjoyed watching come to fruition was that of the deep, deep v-necks, reversible and not, indigenous to Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, Reed Krakoff, Ralph Lauren and Rodarte. While we wholly understand this is a trend meant only for the most meagerly endowed chests, it’s exciting to see a non-sexual or promiscuous nod to bearing a body part that is becoming increasingly less taboo.

sheer panels

And while we’re talking nonsexual promiscuity, how about all the sheer paneling at Phillip Lim, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang, Lacoste and Victoria Beckham? If last season was “all about” the exposed midriff, this one wants to scale back just a morsel of a bit and offer a measly veil of concealment.

90s

…Kind of. If ever there was proof that My So Called Life is still as important today as it was during its initial heyday, it has got to be fashion’s relentless strive to keep the 90s alive. The decade has once again proved once that it’s not ready to depart, which for us, is a point of victory considering our recent investment in a fresh crop of, yes, crop tops and plaid shirts to wear around our waists. Photographed here, modicums from DKNY, Alexander Wang, Rodarte, Rag & Bone, Narciso Rodriguez and Jen Kao.

slipss

And on that note, it should make sense that the future of that trend might manifest as a series of slip dresses and negligees, which were featured at Thakoon, Theyskens’ Theory, Wes Gordon, Steven Alan and Marchesa. Now I don’t know about you, but I can totally get behind actually rolling out of bed in a night gown, lacing up my dirtiest white sneakers and walking out the door.

Finally I feel regretful to confirm that Cara Delevingne was not among the most roaring trends last week. Luckily for next week’s round up, she and her dashing eyebrows are everywhere in London. And with that, I drop the mic.

Collages by Charlotte Fassler & Samantha Herzog

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Thoughts?
  • a.n.a.l.u

    Is bitter-sweet to watch some old trends in the runway, for a while you are disappointed because you are expecting more, something new, something magical to appear ( maybe is about to happen). But then, you think, heeey, i can wear my transparent panel shirt and birkenstocks for a while!

    LAZYCATSTYLE

  • Girlie Blogger

    Never thought of piling on past season’s trends – yes could be good or bad but depends on the person. These are actually pretty refreshing.

    Beauty Fashion Skin Care Blog -Girlie Blog Seattle | Casual Chic Style

  • http://www.downtownhautefashion.blogspot.com/ Leslie

    I liked the lilac hues and the fringe.
    <3

    http://downtownhautefashion.blogspot.com

  • royal wang

    thank you for editing really learn a lot

    http://www.fashionculturediary.blogspot.it/

  • Mary

    Great post. Recycling fashion is a good good thing – lets us luxuriate a little longer in the things we’ve loved before. Two copy edits: penultimate means next to last and the Girl had a Green Ribbon. #sorry #canthelpit

    • Leandra Medine

      I THOUGHT IT WAS GREEN! But in googling, evidence suggested red . . .

      • Lili

        the ribbon was red! Every time I heard it those late nights in sleep-away camp anyways- gave me the creeps.

        • Leandra Medine

          My mom used to read it to me before I went to bed……….

          • Christine McGough

            London, Milan, Paris, New York…if this is the series Paris would be penultimate, no? I don’t know anything about ribbons.

  • rock of eden

    The round shoulder trend – I don’t get it. Love the lavender looks. Thanks for the post Leandra, you’re the best. Take a look at our jewelry collection http://www.rockofeden.com I think you would love some of our original designs and vintage pieces!

  • Perry

    Lets talk diversity, shall we? A trend I see not expanding anytime soon.

    • Perry

      In terms of models, of course.

  • fashmongers
  • http://mafaldadotzero.blogspot.fr/ Mafalda

    I can’t wait to see the real thing next year, it’s difficult to really get into it as much as you did, as all I’m thinking right now is tartan, boots and knits!

    Mafalda ❤
    http://www.mafaldadotzero.blogspot.fr

  • samantha

    eww~~~man repeller also a fans of cara???!!!me too!!!!! well,my recent post is also abt cara delevingne, it is weird for me to not seeing cara in fashion week!!!bu hell yeah!!!she is spotted everwhere in london fashion week!!!!

    well, please visit my blog whenever u feel free!!!! thx ya!!

    http://quirkyurbangirl.blogspot.com/

  • Hanneke

    Can’t wait for summer to start again! xo Hanneke
    http://www.hannekeverstegen.com

  • Sheena

    I can’t believe skirt-pants have weaselled their way into fashion again. I can recall at 11 years old wearing my synthetic skirt-pants and feeling the epitomy of cool, only to proclaim that as one of my bigger fashion fails for the decade to follow. Ironically, they are my favourite part of this post.
    x

    http://www.armatura.com.au

  • kriss

    oh no, i expected a video!! could you make another expert round up happen, say, with your mom and grandmother? i would love that! :) xx

    hautenbas.de

  • http://alcessa.wordpress.com/ alcessa

    What was I thinking? This summer, I fell in love with a pair of shorts, the so-called cargo shorts, with huge leg pockets and some additional stuff, so I bought them. Men’s. With flowery drawings. That’s after having bought a pair of check ones the year before and a pair of denim ones 2 years ago. Men’s.

    I had not expected them to ever feature in women’s fashion in this form: rather large, with huge pockets and almost no frills.

    Serves me right, though, for not having spent a thought on fashion :-)

    They really are beautiful. I mean my own collection. And a big YAY for the ladies’ shorts as seen above!

  • http://www.soundofbeautystyle.com/ Mila

    Like it. Amazing editing selection. Great fashion report :)
    Thanks for sharing!
    http://www.soundofbeautystyle.com

  • Ludapris

    That Rodarte plaid button down and backwards hat look-gangsta :) Compliments of East La’s “cholo” circuit. Love!

  • Pualani@TheRustedKey

    Best part about not-so-new trends showing up in this year’s FW? Not having to chuck your wardrobe that you spent a year perfecting for an entirely new collection.

  • MostWantedStyle.com

    My thoughts…love fringe…always have. Anything with movement keeps my interest. Not really feeling the skirt over the pants, what I refer to as a “skant” (skirt + pant). I had one in high school, right around the time when the movie Clueless was popular and skorts were everything. That trend faded and I soon cut the skirt off of the skant. Also not a fan of the hankie around the neck. It always reminds me of the movie when Diane Keaton wears scarfs to hide her wrinkly neck. What I do love is the deep V…mostly because I’m envious of how chic it looks on a small breast woman. I’m a size 0 and wear a 32DD bra…I think I look like a playmate when I wear a deep V. And last, I’m in love with the sheer paneling shown above. I have something similar on my site…I call it the “All Meshed Up” top. See it here… http://mostwantedstyle.com/mws/product/meshed-up-top-black/

  • http://flyingadolescent.wordpress.com/ flyingadolescent

    Word up to the My So-Called Life fans!

  • jo

    spot on. there’s a nice balance of masculinity and femininity this season!

    http://threescoda.com/

  • http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/ Newborn Fanatic

    My favorite trends are the fringes and the slip dresses!!

    https://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/