If you think the 90s are over, think again. Though it’s clear across almost every board that we are obsessed with the era-of-bad-pants-and-plaid (it’s got to have something to do with Jared Leto, no?), Carven’s Henry Guillame really went for it with the uniform use of a black choker highly reminiscent of the plastic tattoo kind we begged our mothers for way back when. He also showed a series of manipulated bright, micro-camouflage prints, digital florals and updated dusters boasting exposed midriffs, short shorts and shoes that really could have been Rocket Dog.
Ah, those were the days.
Even further back in time, Balmain once again proved that the 80s shall prevail. With a selection of neck ornamentations boasting large chain link chokers accompanied by corresponding cuffs, how could they not? While Olivier Rousteing has taken a break from injecting fashion steroids into the shoulder pads of his jackets, no garments are quite as Fabulous with a capital F as his loose-fit trousers, the leather onesies, the sweaters paired with skimpy, crystal, mid-length embellished skirts and, of course, an incredible nod to man-repelling at large in one such utility onesie made of, you guessed it, denim.
In considering the composition of his collection and holding it up against one of say, Dries van Noten, the most discernible difference lies in the latter’s ability to stop a room in motion but make less impact photographically. Where Rousteing really flourishes is creating clothes that one wants to play dress up in and have documented.
At Nina Ricci, which served as one more curious collection to galvanize the art of the female body as orchestrated by a man, Peter Copping stuck to what he’s good at–creating lingerie for women to wear well beyond the bedroom. In a couplet of shirt dresses and the following sequence of sheer, organza, charmeuse and chiffon white skirt and blouse sets (accompanied by youthful innocence in the form of exposed full white underwear and little black ribbons in the models’ hair) and the same standard set in romantic floral prints, it’s hard to pinpoint whether he’s speaking to a female’s inner youth or inner woman.
What’s the difference, anyway?
I’ll also add that two topless women emerged from a row in the audience–half naked–and ran onto the runway yelling until they were tackled and escorted out, so, there’s that.
And just when I thought I’d seen it all, there was Rick Owens. Tell me you’ve seen the show or watched a video from it and then we’ll reconvene for the sake of it being Thursday and our need to Talk About It.