One thing you can always expect from Ralph Lauren is consistency. What you see — what you’ve seen — is ultimately always what you’ll get and for all intents and cable-knit related purposes, therein lies the magic in his craft. Robin Givhan made a really interesting point in a review for The Cut when she said, “Sometimes, American designers work so hard to convince their audience – and perhaps, themselves – that they are just as creative as those folks in Paris, that just looking at their collections is a tense and exhausting exercise.” Ralph Lauren very rarely tries to polish on tricks and tends to deliver a product he’s seen resonate.
It seems like Reed Krakoff is next to follow suit implementing the same rule of thumb with his collections. Though his cue may look a bit more Narciso Rodriguez than it does Ralph Lauren, the decidedly minimalist, luxuriously athletic apparel treads the water compositing a new genre of plain and good.
On the other end of the same spectrum, where this season’s most pleasant surprise stands, there is Milly by Michelle Smith who has seemingly taken a turn for the cool and discarded the flouncy, highly-feminine and devastatingly contemporary silhouettes of her previous seasons in a new selection of terrifically executed sheer net dropped peplum dresses, two pieces and jackets to cloak overalls. Perhaps similarly, Diesel Black Gold operated in a softer capacity than it usually does, paring down the typical leather get-ups in favor of light blue and white manipulated, sleeveless, waist-accentuating oxford blouses and shorter shift skirts and shorts to take the look home.
Dion Lee is the eponymous label of a rising star from Australia who showed last night and sought to prove that one collection can appeal to several different girls. The black and white, sleek two piece skinny suits of the collection’s earlier looks where chased with more architectural nods to the pure fun and artfulness of fashion.
And as for Marchesa – do you remember Drew Barrymore in Ever After? If only Sean Parker’s new wife had waited a little while longer to pluck one of these gowns for her mythologically charged wedding earlier this year. In fact, actually, and even in spite of my near-null relationship with nature, my one sentence recap for this show could be “What I’d Wear To My Second Wedding.” Better, actually, is What Oscar de la Renta’s Bride Would Wear to Hers. Some of the models boasted delicate ink jobs of butterflies that seemed very clearly done by one Scott Campbell, who sat front row next to his wife, Lake Bell.
Finally, for the love of footwear, please Christian Louboutin, if you’re reading, produce those damn shoes for Marchesa, would you?