The Beauty and the Streets

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September 8, 2013

There’s a pun you’ve never heard before — Day 4 of Fashion Week

Fashion loves the word “juxtapose.” We’re always talking about the juxtaposition of feminine and masculine, or light and dark. We’re intrigued by unlikely mixtures — stripes and florals, for example — that somehow work extremely well when combined. Take, for example, the slew of shows I covered this morning and early afternoon. One was ethereal, the others hip hop cool.

My day began with Delpozo, where models walked a labyrinth of a runway (of the maze variety, not the David Bowie movie) to the voice of what I think was a literal angel. The show left me in a happy, languid Sunday daze — to which I was quickly jarred out of upon arriving at Milk where I dodged an army of photographers chasing an up and coming rapper.

Backstage at the Delpozo show, the brand’s creative director Josep Font explained that two themes inspired his show. The first was a painting by Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot, titled “Gypsy Woman with Tambourine.” His second inspiration were the windows of gothic cathedrals.

“I wanted to clash the two themes,” he explained via translator.

But the Delpozo show itself was too beautiful and lovely to say that the combination of history and art which inspired him was a clash — it seemed to me more like a perfect marriage.

Josep Font originally went to school for architecture, so I asked how that influenced his designs. He said it didn’t, or if it did, only subconsciously. But the elegant structure throughout Delpozo’s SS14 collection was a pretty clear testimony to his architect-in-training days. Check out the giant cropped pants with bustled hips and enormous hoop skirts that swung church bells, and the pair of shorts with a ruffled waist — surely these are the artistic interpretations of someone who once knew how to build a house.

Where Delpozo had been all about beauty, my afternoon shows were focused on the streets and what the kids were wearing. At DKNY, it was ankle length wind breakers and loads of neoprene. Scuba suiting was also shown at the Public School presentation in the form of a zip up we’d very much like to own.

On the topic of buzzy menswear and the concept of “street,” let’s not forget Hood by Air, a brand that’s found fans in Kanye West, A$AP Rocky and Kendrick Lamar. For whatever reason I was most drawn to the looks with the screen-printed Paramount Pictures mountain. Odd, but cool.

Is this what the kids are wearing? If not yet, it will be very soon.

And that’s a wrap for the weekend. Hope you’re juxtaposing and juxta-vogueing and chasing away those Sunday Scaries in style.

  • The Civilian
  • Salisha Lee

    Amelia, I think this was one of your best reviews yet!

  • Amatoria Clothing

    ManRepeller team… I absolutely adore you and I love Chanel, but I hate pop-up ads with a passion. I know you need advertising to make Ca$h Money, but is there a way to do so without Pop Ups??? It really ruins my normally highly enjoyable experience on your site. mmk thanks. <3

    • Jenny

      Get a pop-up blocker on your web browser.

  • monkeyshines

    fantastic structured pieces!

    monkeyshines
    monkeyshines-monkeyshines.blogspot.com

  • Amatoria Clothing

    Also, I’m totally doing a fashion DIY of Look 4 by taping a fan onto my FUPA… YES!!!!

  • Idalia

    I let out a giggle at the mention of David Bowie lol love this article, great review!

    cheers,
    http://www.abstractorganza.blogspot.com

  • AWolfinChicClothing

    Gorgeous, Love the Delpozo collection. Those neon flowers? and basically everything else? STUNNING!

  • http://mafaldadotzero.blogspot.fr/ Mafalda

    Love the juxtaposition theme!

    Mafalda ❤
    http://www.mafaldadotzero.blogspot.fr

  • Cecilie

    Fantastic made pieces! And such a great review.

    // Choicewithnoise.blogspot.com

  • vktus

    Thank you for introducing us to Delpozo! Love every piece — unlike everything else I have seen (and I covered NYFW for 3 years)

  • Paulette

    Delpozo is so very beautiful, but reminds me so very much of the new Dior – the structure, the shapes, the use of greenery on the set. If you hadn’t said the brand, I would have guessed its the work of Raf…

    • Ikoku

      Please revisit Josep Font’s seasons doing haute couture under his own name in Paris. These shapes, colors and embellisments have always been his building blocks, even before Simons’ turn at Dior (which I’m loving also).

      What they aren’t -and its not necessarily a bad thing- are Jesus Del Pozo’s building blocks, since he was so much more austere, less feminine and girly.

      All in all I think what Font is doing with the brand is amazing and I hope he can continue to produce these incredible works of art, even though I can no longer afford a Del Pozo (I have quite a few dresses from the pre Font era).

  • http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/ Newborn Fanatic

    Woa that skirt from Delpozo has crazy volume! :P It’s such a feminine show but has such exaggerations!

    https://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/

  • Clara

    DelPozo show was amazing! But it’s sad that a Spanish designer leading a Spanish brand has to go to the United States to go further in his career. The international impact of the Spanish fashion right now is non-existent and, as a result, it’s not easy to develop a career in this field in Spain. Fashion here (in Spain) is still seen as an unnecessary frivolity.