On the heels of a Jewish New Year, there’s no better way to start – and end – a Saturday night than with liquid metal peplum pencil skirts and skimpy cotton henleys care of Altuzarra. Especially, I might add, when an additional detail from the collection includes none other than a slight, likely unwitting homage to a tallit, which is the hebrew name for a traditional Jewish prayer shawl.
The show, held in the West Village, took a seeming turn for the practical – even in spite of the 5 inch stiletto sling backs and mules – when considering the elaborate embellishment work of Spring/Summer 2013. Draped in lightweight silks, printed with soft, Grecian stripes, the models emblematized the new lady who lunches – and she’s the woman who works.
Per the shows that occurred just prior to Altuzarra, Tibi was, as Amelia puts, “urban jungle themed.” There’s a catch, though, she really means Polynesian rain forest. Which makes sense considering the opening hats, which clearly served no utilitarian purpose and were maybe, just maybe made from popsicle sticks. What’s significant about them is that they prove, in one simple accessory, that Amy Smilovic has the ability to take to unconventional trends and make them accessible, even covetable.Take, for example, the orthopedic-cum-Birkenstock sandal. Maybe the Tibi girl just wasn’t ready for them last season but here they are again, downtown-kid friendly and ready for consumption.
Exposed belly buttons continued to prod our fascination with fashion’s fascination with the 90s, and with the exception of a few bursts of red, an eyelet green top and skirt set and some khaki over garments, the collection maintained a new idea that has been stringing together the more recent Tibi collections – that clothes don’t have to be couture, or premier designer to be timeless.
And at Milk Studios, where for the fifth season in a row I am highly disappointed there is not even a single ounce of milk in the entire space, a compendium of new-ish designers showed their clothes for the fashion week strollers. Most notably? Ostwald Helgason, whose designs have been the darling of street style snaps since the first days of his thick silk, geometric stripes.
I was most drawn toward what was probably a highly narcissistic nod to my wanting to see fabric chokers – and, what do you know, seeing fabric chokers. This would be the second instance (the first was at Creatures of The Wind) that implemented a neck scarf in lieu of a metal choker, sprinkled over a collection that seemed perfectly fit for a Hawaiian getaway. (Supposing you uh, don’t plan to hit the beach). Additional lessons learned? You’re no one if your lips aren’t bright-as-shit next season – this was evidenced at Altuzarra too – and in more personal news, there are little tiny eyebrow hairs all over my keyboard.