Paris might be taking to the arrival of 15-second Instagram videos quicker and decidedly better than any other city when it comes to Fashion Week. Nina Ricci’s show opened and closed with a curtain that signaled the start and end of it–perfect fodder for a thinly-filtered short–while Dries van Noten had Radiohead’s bassist serenade the models as they traipsed. But no one has mastered the art of eliciting the urgency to drop what they’re doing and film quite the way Rick Owens did last night.
The thing about Rick Owens is that you always know what to expect and so maybe based on precisely that pretense can you also always find yourself satisfied. It’s never surprising, but it’s never boring either. The complexly wrapped layers and intentionally familiar drapery is just Rick, plain and simple–which should mean that there’s some wiggle room for creative license when considering his fashion show and more largely the true spirit of The Fashion Show (which is performance) right? Right.
His show venue, tucked into a distant corner in the 12th Arrondisement in Paris, was the setting for a spectacle that provided the deviation from model to three separate troupes of human-looking female dancers dressed head to toe in the new collection, rhythmically (albeit violently) stomping around to a melody that seemed to be beating in tandem with the audience’s severe amusement.
To give those reporting on Paris Fashion Week something to talk about in lieu of lithe limbs, especially when utilizing what have been called “real women,”–that’s always a venture met with equal parts enthusiasm and respect. Of course, it was only after the show that the important conversation started. Can this become the norm?
In this context, the innovation certainly works. The clothes don’t necessarily need to be written about at lengths so great though, yes, the artistry is still of note. But Rick Owens has positioned himself as a hero without having compromised any stretch of the integrity or sellability of his brand.
Even if he had, though, would it matter? I know it’s not Thursday anymore but I’d love to hear what you think about what will indubitably carve it’s way into the upper echelons of fashion history, so, Let’s Talk About It.