Gold at The Tail End

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September 13, 2013

Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs close New York Fashion Week, show-goers subsequently fart glitter.

Until last February, when a blizzard paralyzed full trunks of Marc Jacobs ready-to-wear, which were being shipped from overseas, Calvin Klein has always closed the New York season. For his last two collections, though, Marc Jacobs forewent his Monday night slot and showed instead at the Armory, six hours post Klein, on Thursday night. This has elicited a comparison that is unusual considering how fundamentally different the design approaches of Francisco Costa and Marc Jacobs are from one another.

If they had anything in common, though, anything at all, it was fringe.

After ten years as women’s creative director at Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection was an anniversary party. In line with the occasions happening in tandem, the clothes seemed like a testament to his tenure — quiet and strong. His geometric skirts, stiff blouses that featured side flaps painted in different colors and Carhartt style wide leg pants were a clear indication that Costa doesn’t need new silhouettes and formats to exist because he’s perfectly fine mutating, deconstructing and reconstructing what he’s got in the current setting. It’s always fresh, but it’s never radically different.

Perhaps the most salient proof of concept here were the sleeveless, side slit sweaters featuring various colored thread fringe and his closing ankle length dresses, which really made me want to dance.

When Marc Jacobs started to explain his inspiration for his collection, he rattled off almost everything any stretch of the imagination could contain (a beachside frat party, Victorian era style dressing, even Burning Man) but forgot to mention what seemed most prominent: highly regal throw pillows and furniture. The expectation with Marc Jacobs, much unlike Costa, is that his progressing collections will bear no similarity to the ones that came before. What’s fascinating is that in reviewing the most recent product of his mental objects, you can always recognize that what’s in the present is better than what’s already passed.

The million dollar question was answered last night when cloaked in a short banged-wig that maintained slight semblance to Lydia from Beetlejuice, Cara Delevingne finally made her entrance at New York Fashion Week. The parallel made sense given the former’s notoriously gothic demeanor and the vibe that ran through the dark collection, which offered a different, beautifully sinister take on the way in which a woman should dress for spring.

I guess that’s the thing about Marc Jacobs — he is always obstructing the way women think they should dress and showing us, season after season, that there is no limit.

…The limit does not exist!

  • Tania Jacqueline

    There is no spoon.
    -Marc Jacobs
    lol lbs

  • Amatoria Clothing

    Did he call dibs on Cara Delevigne?

  • Marti

    The hair is a gift in itself

  • Christina Ooi

    GORGEOUS. I’m in love with the CK collection!

    http://www.queenofmayhem.com

  • http://rightternes.com/ RightTernes

    When I saw Marc Jacobs’ collection, I thought the lost boys raided Captain Hook’s ship and made everything he ever wore look oversized and incredibly cool. So stoked on this collection.

  • Tricia

    There’s never a wrong time to use a mean girls reference huh?

  • http://www.editorialite.com/ Maggie Winterfeldt

    Great writing–I really enjoyed reading this post! I wonder how MJ’s collection will do once it hits the mass market. Throw pillow chic could be a hard sell…!
    http://www.editorialite.com

  • Greer Clarke

    I WANNA SEE WHAT YOU WORE

  • http://themacaronaddict.blogspot.co.uk/ TheMacaronAddict

    This is amazing! Loved this post

    themacaronaddict.blogspot.co.uk

  • The Sassy Lips

    love! thesassylips.com

  • Thefashiongals

    Nice and simple

    http://thefashiongals.com

  • Crystal

    To me, next to Marc Jacob’s Spring/Summer 2009 collection, this is his most intricate yet. Like the 2009 collection I was off put about the amount of fabric and layering that went into it, but I’d like tho rationalize that no fashion enthusiast truly enjoys summer fashion. I’ll sweat profusely in the name of fashion any day. You’re right, there is no way he wasn’t inspired by a couch owned by Tony Duquette.

  • diane

    Didn’t Rodarte show a lot of fringe, too, in their homage to all things California?

  • Macie Rae

    I don’t understand how this kind of gorgeousness can come from a guy with Spongebob tattoos, but I love it anyway.
    Macie,
    AMEN FASHION

  • http://www.abstractorganza.blogspot.com/ Idalia

    Marc does it again with his elaborate inspirations & of course his collection. It was def. something out of a Victoria Era. Kind of eerie as well. But def. well put together. Kudos Marc. Great post!

    cheers,
    idalia
    http://www.abstractorganza.blogspot.com

  • http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/ Newborn Fanatic

    *sigh* everything is so beautiful~

    https://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/

  • EtralaLondon

    Beautiful looks, really love these shows! I am a great fan of Marc Jacobs and he never disappoint me!

    Today on the blog, our Street Style shots at London Fashion Week.. amazing looks!! >> http://etralalondon.blogspot.co.uk/

    Best, xx
    from London

  • Ana