We’re declaring yesterday’s fashion week all about age. Young designers showed their growth on the runway while a few seasoned vets matured their brands, and whether young or old or new to the game, a conversation was had by all about the idea of trends and how to make them a designer’s own.
First on deck, The Row.
Show: The Row
One Sentence Recap: “Bees on my head, don’t call me a bee head.” - Andy Milonakis
Important notes: Not since Bianca Jagger got married to Mick has the beekeeper hat been so good. Of course, this was The Row, where everything that walks down the runway is better than good and borderline perfect. The whole collection was elegant, thoughtful. Burnt orange tops were layered over skirts of crinkled georgette and cream cotton tulle, while tunics draped in a most luxurious way. The models walked in a sleepy stride, perhaps exhausted by days spent lounging in the show’s subtly-hinted Moroccan sun. A black and white coat pushed my heart into my throat, but it was the backless leather loafers that really did me in.
Show: 3.1 Phillip Lim
One Sentence Recap: A more seasoned version of Phillip Lim’s last two collections (which were really good, but this is great).
Important notes: Perhaps one of our favorite takeaways this season is that the flat is chic — it’s no longer ironic or a statement or in lieu of pain. Lim has mastered this concept, and as for the clothes the whole collection seemed to build around the idea of comfort; the kind that comes from maturity and self-awareness, as opposed to sweatpants and macaroni. The show featured low-slung bermuda shorts, calm pastels, peplums and seriously amazing fringe-work. And while we’ve seen variations on the tourist theme all week (and of course the peplum before that), this take seemed exciting and new. “What’s interesting,” Leandra pointed out, “Is that his aesthetic is never universally one thing. He can slip into different imaginations of how a woman should look, rent themes and derivatives and then come out owning the trend.”
Show: Theyskens’ Theory
One Sentence Recap: Put a gown on it. Or, if you’re wondering how to turn your denim pencil skirts and mini dresses into gowns, take a cue from Theyskens’. So that’s two sentences but whatever; we do what we want.
Important Notes: Pastel biker shorts were layered under sheer black skirts and blacker, less sheer shorts, while a dark gown worn under a stretch denim spaghetti strapped dress walked by. When the dresses and skirts weren’t floor-length, they were calf-length, Spring’s two approved hemlines by way of Olivier Theyskens. We saw the return (or refusal to depart?) of the peplum at Lim, and here we saw it again, dropped from the waist to the calf. There was a sense of consistency to this collection, a focused vision. And not that Theyskens needed to mature, but it’s still interesting to see how he’s grown up just a bit.
Presentation: Adam Lippes
One Sentence Recap: I am Adam, hear me roar. But I’ll do so quietly because we’re indoors, after all.
Important notes: So, there was this one calf-length shift with a giant tiger printed on it at Adam Lippes’ SS14 collection. It wasn’t bearing its teeth or swiping its claws, but instead looking rather stoically into the distance, like Aslan over Narnia or a fashionable take on one of those wolf shirts. It didn’t quite seem to fit with the rest of an otherwise clean and shop-able Spring collection — nearly every other item looked so easy to wear — but one out of twenty looks is an extremely high batting average. The rest of the clothes were minimalistic, lady like and beautifully made.
Show: Karen Walker
One Sentence Recap: If you’re wondering how to look like a mildly athletic paisley enthusiast with a penchant for pink and patent leather sneakers, this is your collection.
Important Notes: Karen Walker’s spring collection was sporty, wearable and young — age being a topic she clearly likes to play around with. The women of Advanced Style sat front row, perhaps newfound friends after starring in last season’s sunglasses campaign, and we can only hope that the children of this Spring will be right next to us come February. So back to age: Pepto pink fabric and blown-up paisleys, a khaki suit paired with commuter shoe sneakers. All are things that could read as “elderly.” But Karen keeps reminding us that age is but a number, and you’re only as young as the way you wear your messenger bag. (Which is, by the way, mid-waist and across the chest.)
And with that notion in mind we remind ourselves that we are young, and this industry is about fun; we shouldn’t grumble that today is, “only day six,” with a roll of our eyes, but rather rejoice, “IT’S ONLY DAY SIX!,” as a child might at the very beginning of summer.
So come on and shout with us! IT’S ONLY DAY SIX!
Aren’t you so excited we still have TWO. MORE. DAYS? Seriously, and I mean this seriously, we are too.
Photos courtesy of Style.com and Vogue.com