It’s almost comical that the season in progress behind fashion’s steel doors still calls itself resort. These clothes are barely “cruise” friendly, (I am certainly not trying to take an enormous black and white feathered two-piece with me to the Bahamas, though I’d be open to taking Ms. Delevingne along) and you know what? I’m not sure that’s a bad thing. The collections ship in October, drop in November and what with the erratic climatic woes, staking their claim as weather norms, (who needs four seasons when you can have fifteen?), are essentially ready-to-wear right then and there. How often can you say that?
Now, on a less technical note, I ask: on a scale from one to offensively foolish, how naive would it be for me to suggest (I think I’ve done this before) that resort is “the unsung hero” of fashion collections season wide?
It was only while moseying through the Christian Dior resort collection that I was able to recognize that the magic in Raf Simons’ touch is really about his ability to dress a very particular blazon of lady (not to be confused with woman) and yet, appeal to all of us. I’d be hard pressed to find a woman who couldn’t connect with the lace detailing, structural jackets and tulip shapes of this collection.
In Marc Jacobs’ third nod to sleepwear as outerwear, the prints, the silhouettes, the fabric just resonate differently. They’re slightly more digestible and as a result, wearable. And per that loose fit, destroyed denim from Theyskens’ Theory–I don’t know. Would you even still need other pants in your wardrobe? Thakoon made magic playing with pin stripes in a decidedly feminine array of suiting. Phillip Lim proved his salt’s worth as the new-new classic with his double breasted jackets, dark rompers, and everyday whites–reminding us, however, that we could and should all appreciate a surprise now and again. (See: purple metallic detailing).
Here’s my question, though: is my undivided interest just a residual effect care of the stimulation brought forward by falling into summer and the subsequent, animated style cues of such, or are these collections really that good?
In a closer look at what’s here from Chanel (Slides 1-2), Raf Simons for Christian Dior (3-6), Marc Jacobs (7-8), Phillip Lim (9-11), Rag & Bone (12-13), Thakoon (14-16) and Theyskens’ Theory (17-19), I am happy to report three things.
#1. We as a collective will either need to work on our abs or become comfortable with the abs we’ve got because the chances that we keep them concealed come October are dangerously slim to none. (More on this really soon). #2. We can still steal suits from our male counterparts. Be they of the cropped variety (see: Chanel), evincing a fairly discernible homage to Carrie Bradshaw’s crystal knickers ca. that New York City fashion show, season 4 (photographed here is Dior, and you’re probably not stealing this from your dude–or, I don’t know, maybe you are), or just plain white on white (Rag & Bone/Thakoon), stripe on stripe (Theyskens’ Theory). And #3, while not conspicuously evident here, midi is the new mini (shoot me for speaking in such banal absolutes) and powder blue no longer belongs to the sky/baby boy announcement cards/the elephant Beanie Baby, so, here’s to that.
Which collections are your favorite? Tell me everything. Leave nothing out.