The PFW Dispatch
Here’s what happened yesterday.
You know what happens when you don’t feed a baby? It dies. Maybe you’re pleasantly surprised by my phantom presence the last two days, I don’t know, but you know how I feel? Like I’m killing a baby. And I would never deliberately do that. But I digress, here we (yes, you and me) are at Paris Fashion Week and you know what? No?
Me neither. I know nothing. Hey! Lets talk fashion and fashion shows and if you want to talk about France I suppose we can do that, too.
Vibe: Native left-bank dweller, daughter to two painters, splits up time between the library and this obscure coffee shop on Rue St. Honore, which almost always promises the best brie sandwich in town.
Important notes: Three’s a trend, once again, and skirts over pants will happen. Also, it’s phenomenally admirable that Dries van Noten can weave the history of his entire collections together at the thread of a most diminutive string. What is so characteristically Dries: a novel take on menswear (not withstanding the obligatory brogue) will always be characteristically just that because of the often anticipated, always unexpected dash of a beads or textural organza or in this case, feather feather feathers.
Vibe: The ceaseless maintenance of a certain lightness and optimism in spite of the characteristically heavier fabrics of Alber Elbaz.
Important notes: There is something inexplicably fresh–no matter how many times we’ve seen it–about the pairing of a flat shoe with a full, thick, dramatic skirt. The same goes for an airy, rather flouncy dress cloaked in a large, heavy jacket but what struck me as most notable at Lanvin’s Fall show rested deeply in the jewelry choice (see: happy, help, cool) that seems to represent a sort of accepted irreverence and reminder that, hello, fashion is fun. I’m pretty sure that’s a necklace being layed down flipped and reversed creating a a self anointing crown apropriately paired with a desperado necklace exclaiming ‘help’.
Vibe: Clothes so good…it’s electric.
Important notes: She’s either been swept away by the sheer majesty of ivory toggles or if I can imaginably assume correctly, she’s jammed two fingers into a socket and this is what happened. Here’s the thing about Rick Owen: no matter what he does to his models’ hair one thing remains true in the plethora of black, white, and beige that he sends out every season: the utter wearability, luxury, and aspirational element (sometimes attainability) in his designs set him deeply apart. And similar to Dries, it seems there’s always something for everyone, even if she can see through her hair.
Vibe: David Bowie’s girls are back, again.
Important notes: Side parts, middle parts, all parts might be over. I will continue on this note when we talk about Margiela, but the very important note here rests in enormous earrings and even bigger shoulders. Balmain will not let the early 80’s die, and you know what? Good for him. Époque preservation by way of fashion should always be commended.