The Last Licks

Leandra Medine | March 7, 2013

One final report from the field at Paris Fashion Week

In slideshow: Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Hermes (see: fanny pack), Valentino, Louis Vuitton (see: no pants), and Miu Miu.

The big guns come out and then that’s a wrap.

I really enjoy the last couple of days at Paris Fashion Week because they provide pretty special intel into the accessories of the following season. Maybe I just feel that way because I pay closer attention. In a flurry of the highbrow labels indicative of the true spirit of Fashion Week and Paris, I know if I’m ever going to come close to proprietorship, it can only happen where the sun don’t shine (read: down by my ankles).

Trending here? Nothing in particular. Sara Burton continues marching to the beat of her phenomenally twisted, infused-by-McQueen drum. Karl Lagerfeld and Laurence Dacade follow suit and embrace the shoe slash boot slash pant et al–impregnating the trend with a discernible dash of Chanel. Who else can pull off that sort of chain work and a white brogue including black patent leather piping?

My Hermes note is less about the footwear and more a summoning to look past the ankle-length, three-tone outerwear for just one moment (I encourage a peek through this entire collection, it might be one of the only that never compromises its brand for the clothes or vice versa) and rejoice in favor of the fanny-pack’s return. I never stopped loving you. Guess what? My Valentino note isn’t about the accoutrements either–Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who have proven their worth as successful, monetizable designers, throw a pretty mean collection together. I know the show notes included apparent inspiration from dutch painter Vermeer, but I really prefer to call this: liberal nun-wear. Can I? Can I? Let me.

In the case of Louis Vuitton (and a general celebration of innerwear as outerwear), I have to hold up his New York collection against the Paris collection and wonder: should I wear my bare arms over my breasts as a blouse like he suggested at his eponymous show? Or finally take the plunge and pull my pants down, never to pull them back up, a la Paris? One other thing, though, in light of the Hedi Slimane controversy of this Fashion Week, it seems some much-deserved credit and respect should be allotted toward Marc Jacobs for successfully designing two collections each season and doing so in a way perfectly indigenous to the respective brands and still so emblematic of his point of view.

And in other creatures like Marc Jacobs: Miuccia Prada. The shoes at both her shows bear faint similarities and though the clothes are vastly different, it’s really nice to see her DNA permeating through both collections. You know, I used to think of Miu Miu as Prada’s younger sister but with the progressing seasons, she’s becoming quite the well-rounded lady — simultaneously intelligent but still invested in a good, clean(ish) dose of fun. What better combination exists?

I know, I know, rainbow sprinkles and frosting.

Okay, that’s it. That’s all I’ve got. Regular programming to resume tomorrow. Maybe.

  • joao
  • Jon

    The Miu Miu ones are sickening!

  • Iliyana Licheva

    When a door closes, a shoe box opens! 🙂

  • Alba B.

    Love it or hate it Fashion Weeks on your words are always a constant WORLD to be DISCOVERED, and you (leandra) are a good indigenous of this universe, able to lean capture accents for future insight trends. I do see them (your observations) as the right accessory to bare in mind before deciding for an outfit.
    That’s it you’re the right FIT!

  • Daniella Merbs

    I agree with all of the above!

  • Leila Daiana Llunez

    I love the McQueen shoes! The Trend Upsetter

  • Carola Disiot
  • Sharon Jiang

    Your fashion week reviews are so on-the-dot amazing! I wish I possess your talent to see so much into garments and clothing.

  • Somebody from Somewhere
  • Jennifer

    Those are intense!

    xo Jennifer

  • sara constance

    You’re by far my favourite person ! it was such an adrenaline rush having the chance to snap you and your overly brilliant Panda ensemble before the Isabel Marant show in Paris. You can check yourself here (spoiler alert : SUPER cute as always! ) :

  • Fashion Snag

    The shoes are everything. I kept saying last kicks to myself instead of last licks. It happens when you love shoes.

  • monkeyshines

    fascinating pairs!


  • Alexa Curtis

    LV was amazzzzinnggg and nothing less. How crazy were the shoes at some of these shows? Made the biggest statement for me.


  • Lilli

    fanny packs or back F YEH

  • Selena Aponte

    These SHOES! [smacks forehead] unbelievably, remarkably, breathtaking. It cannot get any better than this.

  • Vicki Archer

    Some fabulously fun and quirky shoes here, I adore the pair in the second photo with the gold and feather…great fun!!…xv

  • Elisabetta Silvestro

    I’m all about the going out without pants, or better, in pajamas


    AVVESOME review. Fashion week is definitely an occasion for visual imagination. Just the spectrum of creativity is enough to last one till the next season. Lucky for us.


  • Justine

    I so envy those who got to attend fashion week.. anyways
    those shoes are gorgeous! x
    – Justine

  • AF

    Great post as always, well written and passionate.

  • Paula McClelland


    ♥ Paula Shoe Fiend.

  • Bonnie, Clyde + Marni

    Great post!!! Love your writing!!

  • Local & Opulent

    I am personally in love with the new Chanel boots!

    A new post is up on Local & Opulent. Colour, Fashion, Street Style!

  • María Belén Acosta Meana

    Leandra, (or anyone if you know) please, would you tell me what designer and collection is that pleated outfit from the blog´s title? Please I need to know for some work for college! Thanks!

    • Leandra Medine

      Hi! It’s Chloe

      • María Belén Acosta Meana

        Thank you!

        • María Belén Acosta Meana

          I found it! It’s spring 2013! Great1

  • Far and Wild Jewelry

    more like last kicks am i right? seriously though this fashion week, and especially paris, delivered on the shoe front in the most over the top of ways. i’m really curious to see how these runway trends will translate to street style. but i guess that’s kind of the point.


  • Belén Cavas Hernández
  • Belén Cavas Hernández
  • Clara

    I just love your shots…just love the new Chanel boots!

  • Cirque de l’Atelier

    Love the Miu Miu shoes, but the rest of the show was a bit lacking. These are the shows I thought were the best 6, KENZO ROCKED MY WORLD!!!!!!!

  • Adrianna Alejandra

    Miu Miu is definitely stepping out of its older sister’s shadow, I like to think of it as a little girl growing up, a little more defined, but still holding in the essence of fun before completely dropping it. And, Valentino is definite nun- wear. We were all thinking it, you just said it, Leandra. That collection reminds me of a puritan kind of woman… AKA nun- tastic.

  • Lydia Teo

    Valentino never fails to wow me with their ‘liberal nun-wear’. I always can’t wait to see their collection each season.

    liberal nun-wear

  • Jessica

    I don’t think Sarah Burton is marching to her usual drum at all. Her past McQueen collections were gorgeous, but this is phenomenal. I just wish there was more than ten looks.

    The Lovelorn

  • Behind the Mirror

    Amen! Cheers to Marc Jacobs for successfully designing two collections each season and doing so in a way perfectly indigenous to the respective brands and still so emblematic of his point of view!!!!