More from Paris

by Leandra Medine
March 4, 2013
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A look at Margiela, Celine, Chloe, Acne, Givenchy and Comme des Garcons

Toto’s navigation is completely out of whack and when I woke up this morning, I was no longer in Paris (and, if you’d believe it, wearing patent leather red shoes). The good news is: there’s a premeditated reason–I didn’t actually just wake up here–I’m going to Dallas tomorrow so maybe if you’re in Texas, we can hang out. The bad news is, I very, very regretfully had to forfeit firsthand viewership over a pretty generous deluge of phenomenal shows. That is not a humble brag–watching clothes sway in a particular pattern and hearing the models march to the beat of the music while trying to understand why the venue choice reflects the clothes being previewed is an irreplaceable experience. Where the internet (photos) fail, human interaction never will.

I made it to about half the shows clocked in below and for the ones I was forced to rely on a combination of Vogue.com, Style.com and the Instagram community at large, I’ll just say: I am elated–absolutely elated–that fashion is taking plaid seriously. I wonder how long we can subsist in the 90s before it’s time to take to the early aughts?

Go ahead, now, read me.

maison-martin-margiela-rtw-fw2013-runway-13_161130297237

Picture 1

Show: Maison Martin Margiela

Vibe: Margiela remained true to the curiosities and obscurities of the mental objects of the Belgian designer while taking into account that as Cathy Horyn put it in relation to the shows at large this season, “restraint just looks good.” Case in point: crisp white shirts are just that–crisp and white but not without the dramatization of a sleeve that immobilizes wrist-use. Wide leg palazzo pants are only as particular as a blunt paint stroke (in variations of pink, yellow, and red) creating the illusion of a track-pant-mark but feeding into absolutely nothing that is sporty.

Important Notes: The cut-out bands behind almost every single dress, jacket, and shirt suggest my short hair has the shelf-life of another, I don’t know, six months? Just kidding, but it seems here that better than actually cutting the hair is tucking it into a strap and allowing for the cascading long locks to function as a sort of counter-fabric from rear view. Also, like at Balmain, forget the middle part and the side part: it’s no part or bust.

Picture 4Picture 3 Picture 5Show: Chloe

Vibe: Honestly? It felt very back-to-school-girl if the girl in question had experienced some interesting uni-gender romance over the summer inciting what seemed like the once-impossible possibility that if she doesn’t want to look like a girl, she doesn’t have to look like a girl. The thing about this particular girl, though, is that she’s kind of confused. After all, who could say no to a ruffle so dynamic? (See: photo 1)

Important Notes: Clare Waight Keller is working hard to bring the real, whole, true spirit of Chloe back to the house, nodding quite decisively toward the femininity emblematic of the brand but understanding the importance of modernity (the buzzword of this season, or is that just me?) which in this case quite strategically means understanding that there is no longer one, directional point. It’s derivative but it’s new and it means everything while saying nothing.

Picture 6 Picture 7 Picture 8

Show: Celine

Vibe: Phoebe’s kingdom shall prevail based on the merit of consistency.

Important Notes: The use of different plaids in familiar silhouettes is lovely. The strong folded short-sleeve arm holes on a wool cropped top is even nicer. But it is the way in which Celine’s models hold their bags, the abandonment of fur after such extensive use in a season that doesn’t even call the fabric to action (see: Spring), and shoes that function as boots, stockings, maybe even leggings, too, are precisely the details that separate Celine from its contemporaries.

Picture 10 Picture 12

Picture 9Show: Acne Studios

Vibe: There’s a “Studios” in our new branding and don’t you forget it. Indeed–we’re no longer just a well-sheathed parody of your 14-year-old’s facial problems.

Important Notes: What once seemed like an alpha selection of jeans (which, mind you, is still just that) and leather outerwear has snowballed into this fascinating play on dynamic, luxurious fabric and color. The way in which these layers fall and the fresh silhouettes evoking the brand’s newness are a real testament to the seriousness evident in Johnny Johansson’s evolution from contemporary label to full functioning high fashion ready-to-wear brand. Fashion is still fun, though–that should always remain true–which is probably why the shoes in this show make the models look like they’re stepping in fresh wedding cake, right?

Picture 13 Picture 14Show: Givenchy

Vibe: Ricardo Tisci is smart in that he knows precisely what works–precisely was excites his editors and incites his customers. You want a sweatshirt? I’ll give you a sweatshirt. A nod to the 90s? You got it–play with this plaid, use this leather and here’s a rather muted floral print to make it our own. Our own–it’s just that, isn’t it? That when Tisci designs, it feels like he’s designing for the collective.

Important Notes: Is it too ambitious for me to implement the age-old Man Repeller raison d’etre right here? If it looks like a vagina (which these models heads do), it’s probably couture. Or in this case, exemplary ready-to-wear.

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Picture 2

Show: Comme des Garcons

Vibe: Rihanna is to Disturbia what Kawakubo is to Esoteria.

Important Notes: It is still Rei Kawakubo’s world, we’re just living in it and only the strong can survive. I wasn’t at this show and as such, your opinion is probably better than mine so let’s deconstruct it together. These were two of my favorite looks (that velvet! Those sleeves! A jumpsuit! Vagina?) but have a peek at the rest of the collection here. Don’t forget to come back, though. I’m waiting for your report.

REPLIES
  • Me Gusta o No Me Gusta

    The Chloe dress it’s the most amazing dress I saw on the runway show!
    So beautiful and delicate. I loved it.
    http://www.megustaonomegusta.com

  • Susana Echeverri

    firstcomesfashion.com has ALL the shows (I think) … and, you know, videos are better than pictures.

  • http://www.facebook.com/DidiTooFresh Didi Ramirez

    Chloe, Celine and Margiela are just a breath of fresh air but I am a little befuddled by the Comme des Garcons outfits. They are reminiscent of Jack Nicholson’s joker… but the velvet color is so rich and pleasant that it has become one of my favorites.

  • http://www.fashionsnag.com/ Fashion Snag

    I am loving the Givenchy vibe!

    http://www.FashionSnag.com

  • http://twitter.com/misshoax bianca

    i haven’t loved a chloé show in a looooong time. that changed yesterday. so gorgeous and modern. adore it. (aweebitskint.com)

  • Éléonore

    Qu’est-ce que allez-vous être faire à Dallas?

    • Leandra Medine

      Appearance at Neiman Marcus to promote collaboration avec PJK!

  • http://nicola-lynde.blogspot.dk/ nicola lynde

    Celine is divinity. The surrealist oversized grey number is absolute perfection.

  • monkeyshines

    stunning oversize jackets!

    monkeyshines
    http://monkeyshines-monkeyshines.blogspot.com/

  • Malibu PR Gal

    I felt completely molested by pattern and texture after NYFW – no way I could have made it through London, Milan and Paris! I’m just now getting caught up on my blog, two Malibu designers making the SI Swimsuit issue ( liken it to Vogue’s September Issue for us ), Kurt Cobain’s bday and getting engaged! Ugh! Exhausting! Thanks for giving us the low down! P.s. Have fun (?) in Dallas : )

  • http://twitter.com/LocalAndOpulent Lesley O.

    Excellent Paris reporting! The shows have been amazing so far!

    A new post is up on Local & Opulent – winter blues are battled with furry stoles, margaritas and the discovery of Paris in Toronto.

    http://localandopulent.wordpress.com/2013/03/04/fiesta/

  • Bonnie, Clyde + Marni

    I’m in lone with the Celine collection!!
    http://www.bonnieclydemarni.com/

  • http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/ Newborn Fanatic

    love that celine clutch!!

    http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/

  • Tokyo UP

    i think Kawakubo is a lady of abstraction and the more we try to understand her ideas, the more we’re dicking ourselves over. she’s probably my fave. her enigmatic persona & designs are always so fresh.

  • http://www.facebook.com/aniaguseva Anna Guseva

    Everything right here is about details

    http://www.affecteepar.wordpress.com

  • http://www.facebook.com/moni.araoz Moni Araoz

    I can do Celine, Stella and Comme de Garçons why not!!!

    http://moneasywardrobe.com/

  • http://twitter.com/danielmalamis Daniel Malamis

    you know you’re absolutely perfect at what you do right?

  • Anna Black

    Beautiful pictures, ah I’m so jealous you get to go to paris fashion week!!

    http://beblacknblue.blogspot.co.uk

  • Nico

    Great post, like checked and white coats from Céline.

    http://lowbudget-lowcost.blogspot.it/2013/03/do-you-like-this-outfit.html

  • Guest

    What are you doing in Dallas?

  • http://www.descosido.com Descosido

    See, Leandra, that’s when you call me so I can take over for you in Paris ;) Seriously. I quite agree with you on Givenchy. However I think clothes ought to be more about than just commercial success. Sure this remake of hits will sell like hotcakes and will appear in every major magazine editorial possible; but nothing felt “new”. It was like mixing up and cooking leftovers. It was like, the gypsy thing again? really? the sweatshirts again? (ok, the embellishments and tulle was pretty) but again, Really? I thought a greatest hits collection would be more of a ten year mark thing. Does this mean he is leaving Givenchy? He did skip couture this January. So is he lacking new ideas? Hmmmm… What do you think?

  • http://thecornerapartment.com/ Elizabeth @ TheCornerApartment

    Have fun in Dallas! It’s one of my favorite cities in Texas, following Austin, of course.

    Elizabeth of The Corner Apartment

  • Eva

    I’m a big fan of the Celine show this time and love the Maison Martin Margiela coat on the first photo! xx

    http://www.creativityandchocolate.blogspot.com

  • Different Strokes

    Love the article as per usual, but I have to say: what happened to your proof reader? The last few articles have had a few spelling, grammatical & “sense” errors. Bit surprised as I don’t think your previous articles have had this problem. Just find it a bit distracting. Sorry! Bit of a Grammar Nazi.
    Great pictures and as per usual, your thoughts on these shows are interesting and to the point.

  • Rachxo

    The Comme des Garcons show looks amazing. I must say that the velvet is a must have for the fall in my wardrobe. Plus, that color is beautiful!

    http://www.designerdreaming.blogspot.com

  • VoP

    Great post!!! I love Celine

    http://victimorprotagonist.blogspot.com.es/

  • Sarah Enriquez

    It’s always really exciting to see patterns recycled in new ways. The construction of the jackets and the detailing in the skirts, shoes, etc. is really impressive and reminds me why I love fashion so much. The Paris shows were really amazing and all very different from each other. The one distinct factor was the unique construction of the clothing-very geometric.

  • Lateybirdy

    you know what i admire about you; that you read and (mostly) reply to comments. this is where most of the successful bloggers fail.

    on another note, i think the matter of actually being there to fully understand a show and the internet not being sufficient is very sad for the likes of us who do not have the chance to actually attend the shows (which I think was also covered by Cathy Horyn during NYFW). But I guess you are right in the sense that we will never feel the fabrics which makes the garment itself while sitting in before our computers.

  • http://ravenmaidenmaven.blogspot.com/ Lydia Teo

    Totally died and went to heaven when I saw the Celine collection!

    ravenmaidenmaven.blogspot.com

  • Anna

    Chloe is great, lovely shoes!

    stylizacje

  • Em

    I wanted to put on every single item of Celine and wear them around town like a giant woolen ball of chic.

    That’s how much I loved this collection.

    xoxo, Em
    http://stylebydirtywater.blogspot.com

  • http://www.farandwildjewelry.blogspot.com/ abigail lind

    the entire chloe collection screamed stacey nishimoto to me in the best way possible.

    abigail

    http://www.farandwildjewelry.blogspot.com

    ps. re: comme des garcons, vagina.

  • http://twitter.com/PrimpedandPrime Sharon Jiang

    Definitely excited to see plaid back on the runway. Also, the Chloe show was amazing, they had a great mixture of feminine and masculine.

    http://primpedandprimed.blogspot.com.au/

  • Nicola

    If you’re anything like me, you’ll probably have to rent your forehead out as a billboard space in order to afford that Celine coat. The good news is, you can get the look for less just by cutting some holes in your old emergency travel bag.

    • http://www.facebook.com/azaliamtz Azalia Martinez

      I wouldn’t be able to rent out my forehead, (its a 4 finger forehead) but I will take your advice on that emergency travel bag, Seems like i have found my market. Here in the valley, there is one use and one use only for those bags, that is to transport an immense amount of useless shet from place to place.

    • http://twitter.com/CaptiveLouise Captive Louise

      They’re great if you’re moving into a new place and need somewhere to put all your clothes/shoes/books.in.
      http://shop.vitor.com.pt

  • http://www.facebook.com/azaliamtz Azalia Martinez

    I would like to thank Givenchy for representing me and the rest of the freak crowd that find pleasure in wearing upper body clothing on their lower half. Tube skirts make great tube tops; lumberjack plaid button downs make great skirts (down there.) I simply enjoy wearing things where they DON’T belong. Just wait ’til you see an underwear used in a feasible way, like a mask or an off the shoulder cropped top. Works for me.

  • Emily

    Ok the Celine collection is amazing! I would wear every single piece.

    meimode.blogspot.com

  • ora888

    Tisci kicked ass this season. By far the best collection shown on this post

  • Captive Louise

    That Celine plaid coat makes me think of our local market, Bolhão. I seriously reminds me of the plastic raffia bags the old ladies use to transport their groceries :>
    http://shop.vitor.com.pt