On the Tail End

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February 14, 2013

History in the making

Home stretch, people! Let’s talk Tuesday and Wednesday noting Anna dello Russo’s presence and starting with Oscar de la Renta, where the John Galliano influence was evident (for the uninitiated, he’s been studying under Oscar for an alleged three weeks) but only in the same way sugar is in cookies. The clothes maintained a fundamental air of Oscar, even in the beginning four looks, which featured structured coats in colors emblematic of Galliano’s spirit. The hair (there were several different styles) submitted to the code of Galliano, too–with its messy, wet, and oily demeanor, complimented by intentionally greasy eyes.

In the closing look, (a dress so Oscar, it would be hard to chalk it up to anything else,) the hair and makeup was a perfect compliment for a bright fuchsia wow gown, defying the stereotypes of formal wear. It was in the darker looks equipped with capes and dark velvet accents, which really spoke to Galliano’s style that softer hair and easier makeup was applied to signify the true test of teamwork.

Narciso Rodriguez is one of the more reliable designers sitting atop the upper echelons of fashion. He will never surprise you with something you don’t want to see and will always maintain that his clothes are for a minimalist, elegant woman, interested in wowing a room without actually wowing that room–kind of the same way I have recently found that the key to good street style is wearing something you’d wear any other day, not just because it’s fashion week and you feel your closet deserves a steroid injection.

And at Rodarte: holy heartbeat. The most majestic journey through the mid-90s into a fairy tale about (maybe?) Angela Chase (and definitely not Cher Horowitz) and an inspiration trip to both Barcelona (floral hairspiration) and Woodstock, injected by the accents figurative of a forest-laden fable. But wait, there’s more: hardware inspired accessories and the motorcycle trenches, jackets and layers that our collective dreams are made of. It’s quite impressive that even in spite of the adventure through so many different motifs, this collection remained succinct.

Reed Krakoff is the rare Thoreau (see: “simplify, simplify, simplify”) who can keep his clothes so basic and bare and yet still procure astonishment. Why wouldn’t we indulge in a full navy suit featuring lush silk to break up the fabric blocking? Or a silk crocodile print so rich, it falls rather close to the real thing on the spectrum of luxury. Better yet, why didn’t we think of it? And as for the breadwinners: those casual, cool structured bag and over-the-knee boots so perfect for every occasion, I reckon it will be hard to find even the one, ubiquitous, lonesome veto-er.

Finally, at Marchesa: shorter, tighter, more wearable dresses to make the prospect of formal gallivanting far more enticing. I’m not sure about you, but if and when I have to take off my jeans, it is only ever for a “Marchesa moment.” Shoot me for saying that, just go ahead.

The play on larger sleeves that manage to maintain a sultry neckline in almost every single instance and the intricate, lush embroidery that has become so wholly representative of the Marchesa aesthetic are well in play here and though beautiful, large, and capable of well, anything, my attention fell down to ankle length on a number of occasions (all royal, albeit) to admire the Christian Louboutin made-only-for-this-show heels in their palatial velvet glory. They featured three linear ankle straps to add a complimentary dose of dynamic power to the dresses that deserve it.

And on an unrelated note: my collaboration with PJK has finally landed and as such, is available for purchase right here. Go on, indulge. It’s Valentine’s Day and you deserve it.

  • Perry

    I was hoping your collaboration would be more sartorially offensive.

  • mardijane

    I wish I had enough cash to indulge, but that ain’t a thang. I love a lot of these runway looks, but I doubt many, especially a size 16 gal such as myself could pull it off on the street. Some of those pieces though, just uh.

    http://www.becoming-urban.blogspot.com.au

    • Leandra Medine

      You know, I’ve come to realize that everything looks so great on the runways because of a. the models and b. the context. Amid a succinct collection with no real occasion linked to them, every runway show seems so right.

  • A.

    This is amazing! I love Rodarte’s collection. I’ve always thought that their clothes were works of art, not meant for wearing…

    andherphotos.blogspot.com

  • Annie K

    How do fashionable Jewish girls (writer and readers), feel about the return of Mr. Galliano to the world of fashion design? No one can deny his talent, but in my book, he is a giant turd.

  • rhodawong
  • Silvia
  • http://ravenmaidenmaven.blogspot.com/ Lydia Teo

    The Oscar de la Renta and Marchesa collection really wowed me! And I totally agree with you on the street style part – trying to wear something different or more shocking just because its Fashion Week is kinda similar to a one-hit wonder, for me.

    ravenmaidenmaven.blogspot.com

  • Mrs-smithh.blogspot.com

    Omg, I love this!!

    http://mrs-smithh.blogspot.com

  • lavieenliz

    it’s all so beautiful

    check out my new line!

    http://lavieenliz.com/2013/02/14/rich-addictions-part-deux-karl-is-god/

  • SArah

    OH MY GOD that hot pink oscar de la renta dress is unreal

  • A

    But wheennn can I purchase the banana t???

  • ThePantryDrawer

    the multi-colored Oscar outfit is incredible. I’m obsessed!

    http://www.ThePantryDrawer.com

  • http://twitter.com/selenaaponte Selena Aponte

    They saved the absolute best for last. The ethereal quality of these collections resonate with my inner princess. Kudos for sticking up for ODLR, Vogue and other media outlets have been speculating that his collection was far more Galliano influenced than his own . He deserves the respect and honor.

  • Namrata

    Love the skirt and that purple bag!

  • Namrata

    Love the skirt and the purple purse in picture 1!

    N
    http://seasoncheck.blogspot.in

  • Sí al Sí quiero

    Love everything about ODL and Galliano colaboration

    Sí al sí quiero

  • http://twitter.com/CassEast55 MaryRohCass

    Thank you Man Repeller you’ve done a bang up job this week, photos and editorial. And did love your Super Fly homage suit, well loved all your ensems this week but particulary that one.

  • monkeyshines

    classy and elegant!

    monkeyshines
    http://monkeyshines-monkeyshines.blogspot.com/

  • Rose
  • tania pagliai

    Your blog is amazing!
    I am Italian and it’s always interesting to catch a french eye about fashion.
    It would be great if we could follow each other!
    Step by on my blog if you have time!
    Tania
    http://www.glamourmaniacs.com

  • http://festofstyle.blogspot.com/ Christina

    even if its more difficult to wear everyday im more into the Oscar de la Renta clothes much more that the others!!!!!

  • Jennifer

    Love those last group of dresses!

    xo Jennifer

    http://seekingstyleblog.wordpress.com

  • Stephanie Lam

    Ahh just dying over those Louboutins!!! DYING!

    -Stephanie

    @LaminLouboutins.com

  • Jenny

    Soo, if I was to purchase anything on this Galentine’s Day from your collab with PJK… Do you guys ship internationally? I couldn’t find any info about that.

  • http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/ Newborn Fanatic

    Hooded capes. too fabulous. I will be a step closer to looking like a death reaper and loving it.

    http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/

  • XeanaFashion

    Excellently design!

    xoxo,Xeana
    Please, check out my blog! Giveaway necklace!!!

  • Bonnie, Clyde + Marni
  • Harriet Emma

    The purple bag and the pink dress are BEAUTIFUL!

    harrietandemmabeautifullife.blogspot.co.uk

    H & E x

  • Sabaa

    Hooded capes and pink dress are just wonderful!
    http://sabaaphotography.blogspot.com/

  • Janet

    Wow they are so serious love the dress

  • http://twitter.com/Idiosyncracie Mathé Kamsutchom

    i love with everything. so beautiful!
    http://idiosyncracie.com