London vs. NY

Some hits from London Fashion Week

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Details above from Christopher Kane, Erdem, JW Anderson, Mulberry and Topshop Unique

London Fashion Week differs from New York Fashion Week in that like a true testament to British culture, the events, parties (far and few but still profoundly enjoyable, see: that time I saw Harry Styles) and shows of the week (which is actually closer to half a week, four days, two of which–Sunday and Monday, where the meat of the shows preview), the chaos is elegantly and rather deeply organized. In New York, we’re headless chicken trying to conceal the absence of mind by way of beguiling headgear. Every show venue in London considers the nutritional (and, I don’t know, otherwise too) benefits of generously offering an array of food and beverage before shows begin and from what I have gathered, Somerset House is phenomenally more graceful than a certain Lincoln Center.

New York Fashion Week differs from London Fashion Week in that the energy of New York is inimitable, irreplaceable and indigenous only to a city where the fashion week orchestraters can schedule upward of three shows per hour, every hour, and not even so much as flinch at the thought that perhaps it’s somewhat staggering. You’re a rare breed, New York. But enough about that, let’s talk shows. I’m not quite sure if New York Fashion Week has become more interesting or if in London the saleability factor is becoming more prominent.

Show: Mulberry

Vibe: Per usual, little girl grows up, earns intellect, maintains the spirit of her youth but butterflies into a phenomenal lady.

Important notes: once is interesting, twice is coincidental and three’s a trend: skirts over pants will usurp their own throne once again and we will obey the commands. Also, a note about monochrome, which is seemingly happening in several different hues of a similar variety–is it rejection toward representation? (See: Yves Klein).

Show: Peter Pilotto

Vibe: Peter Pilotto. In more fall appropriate dark tones on an array of puffer cropped coats, longer ones and featuring sporadic white fur accents, it’s a genuine wonder that the design duo behind can successfully exhaust the same strain of print season after season without its losing even an inkling of luster.

Important notes: the long, over-sized coat–phenomenal in a silk houndstooth blend but most conspicuous in the departure-from-comfort-zone by way of bright red sequence, swaying ever so slightly toward oriental inspiration at beginning of show.

Show: JW Anderson

Vibe: Unassuming editor at Fashion Week–and why? Because these are the clothes you wear because you want to wear them, not because you want to get photographed in them. It may happen incidentally, but your intentions are rather lucid.

Important notes: I know that sounds strange considering the attention to architectural construction but if this show could have been summed up in a three-noun review, it would be precision, consistency, attention-to-subtle-detail. (The dashes make the final word one).

Show: Erdem

Vibe: First Lady with a closet full of skeletons. Why? Because this woman is decidedly elegant and strategic about her silhouette choices–the pencil skirts, the jackets, the regal, large collars, but her details suggest a previous life. The sunglasses, sheer overlays, and bounce in-step unobtrusively indicate an indispensable, dormant appreciation for Patti Smith.

Important notes: Mary Jane, pointed toe flats. This is at least the third instance (though reflectively andas of right now, only Tabitha Simmons can come to mind in subscription to this reissue) I’ve seen of the flat pointed toe making it’s come back outside of boot formation.

Show: Christopher Kane

Vibe: Stop making my damn heart beat so fast. That thing happened with this collection–when I connect with something so viscerally and am not sure why I can’t put it in words though in my head it makes such clear, cerebral sense.

Important notes: Boat necks (one in fur, no less), a very unique nod to 90s, and various shades of fatigue (camo-print), all of which maintain the Kaneian design style.

Show: Topshop Unique

Vibe: High street fashion grows up, offers a little something for everyone while maintaining true rocker edge and inciting another really great Cara Delevingne gawking moment. Man, I love her.

Important notes: I am particularly keen on the Topshop collection because in a sea of price-upon-requests, a selection of clothes that pique my interest with the same intensity as the former and yet offer the attainability factor without compromising runway allure is wildly refreshing. Cropped patent leathers pants and skirts? An enormous navy silk jumpsuit and matching jacket? I know it’s not good because I like it but man, oh man, do I.

And finally, all hail Tom Ford. I have found it increasingly difficult to comment on a show I didn’t attend (the way in which the fabric moves down a runway and the attitude that a model offers to the look are moments that photographs–which are effectively only refreshers–can’t really catch) but when I caught glimpse of the Tom Ford show via Vogue.com, I said, “holy moly.” No, really, I did.

Maybe because it wasn’t what I expected but then again, I didn’t know what to expect. The colors, the brief and slight nods to Ford’s work at Gucci, the combinations of print and texture and unconventional pairing are what I have always imagined London Fashion Week to be about. That is, an unapologetic, “Don’t like it? Don’t care. You’ll see.”

We will.

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Thoughts?
  • Ayshe Rose

    I really liked Erdem and Christopher Kane collections. And I must say I loved your comment on twitter about London vs New York

    http://www.stylishtimes.net

  • http://profiles.google.com/shainakamkar shaina kamkar

    Wow to that chocolate leather mulberry cape! It looks so luxurious..something I’d see on one of those chic Upper East Side moms. My mission: thrift til’ the death of me to find a leather cape. On a side note, Cara sure is popping up everywhere and boy does she work it….but how bout Sam Rollison (queen of cheekbones) or Catherine McNeil?

    http://shimmyshay.blogspot.com

  • Edye

    “Don’t like it? Don’t care. You’ll see.” Isn’t that the truth!

  • Alona Bronstein

    Topshop and Mulberry are amazing! :) I love the suits in Mulberry and well, Topshop is just perfect as always!
    x
    Alona | stylewanders.blogspot.com

  • IKH

    Recently have become obsessed with Topshop. BTW, do you write all these blog posts yourself MR? Because I’ve been hearing rumours of late that some of these posts are written by other people. Just wanted to know. Love your blog, as always.

    • Leandra Medine

      Hi–all written by me unless noted otherwise (there is only one contributor, her name is Mattie Kahn and it is clearly started when the story in hers). That said, I AM planning to bring more writers on.

  • monkeyshines
  • Cristián Pavez Díaz

    Kane and Mulberry are my faves. Great post!

    Greetings from Santiago, Chile.

    http://www.carethewear.com

    http://www.facebook.com/carethewear

  • lucy

    that tom ford look is depth

  • lucy

    like i want to crawl into it

  • Nina J. Martin

    London girl and boys are very smart. They are advances for their life. Their dress fashion is very digital.

  • http://twitter.com/looksharpWI Look Sharp Sconnie

    But what is ‘good’ if no one likes it?

    How can a word just float around without meaning?
    It was made ‘good’ by someone liking it, right?
    Or disliking it, I guess.

    Anyhow: I’m narcissistically OK with my power to make something good via approval. Because good’s relative.

    The way that purple satin sleeve just kisses and then pops in that beautiful little split is really addicting. Thanks for the London update.

  • Zainab

    That Tom Ford piece is just wow! But yes to TopShop! I loved your bit, “because in a sea of price-upon-requests, a selection of clothes that pique my interest with the same intensity as the former and yet offer the attainability factor without compromising its runway allure is wildly refreshing.” I’m all for affordable style! If style only = brand names and $$ then I’d question what style means at all! xx http://theempressclothes.blogspot.com.au/

  • babywarren

    clever girl, loved the references to the SUZY MENKES piece for the NYtimes.
    : )

  • Lessie

    Tom ford was for me so fantastic, i can see Miroslava wearing lots of this stuff along with various fashionistas. I bet we’ll see tons of this pieces being photographed in next fashion week street style.

    • Lessie

      Also, i found the entire collection to be oh-so-man-repelling

  • oh my dior

    god that dress is amazing!

    http://www.ohmydior.org/

  • Anna

    wow, this indian style shoes are great

    travaux

  • My Daily Steeze

    TYPO ALERT!! You accidentally misspelled “Vibe” when discussing the Peter Pilotto show. Love the post, just something I noticed.

  • Jennifer

    Not that I’ve been to either city for fashion week, but I think I would prefer NYFW… I think the hustle and bustle is a part of the whole experience!

    xo Jennifer

    http://seekingstyleblog.wordpress.com

  • Cat

    Bless you for these summaries, I am not even there and already feel exhausted from trying to keep up.

    • Cat

      also, Anderson.

  • lavieenliz
  • natalie

    i loved topshops collection! Great post i want to go to nyc and london fashion week one day

    xx

    http://anoddgirl.blogspot.com.au

  • Namrata

    I realised that as well, that the collections showcased at LFW were more suited to the Londoners and their sensibilities, making it more commercial and as you pointed out, saleable. That said, the collections by Burberry, Topshop and Roksanda Illincic were amazing!

    N
    http://seasoncheck.blogspot.in

  • D. Louli

    I’d rather less posts by you then more by other writers – When I see a post by other contributors on your page I don’t read it. Theres so many bloggers and your point of view is what makes me come back for more.

    • Leandra Medine

      Interesting, thanks for letting me know! I only intend to commission writers that are more interesting and better than me though. Have you read any of Mattie’s work? She makes me feel phenomenally emasculated.

      • http://twitter.com/MsKristiina kristiina ^..^

        I just want to jump in hear to say that I really enjoy Mattie’s posts. I feel like it’s a nice way to branch out into different topics. I also love Charlotte’s illustrations.

  • andrew hudson

    Nice comparison of these both fashion giants cities by pics. I am confused to choose which one is superior between these two sides! Authentic Pigment is the best in fashion.

  • http://www.facebook.com/frenie.agbayani Frenie Agbayani

    Lovely outfits- those colors are amazing!Smart casual dress code

  • http://www.tripsandtreasures.net/ Trips & Treasures

    I hadn’t seen the tom ford show yet, but now I will definitely look it up
    great overview ! and i love boatnecks

    http://www.tripsandtreasures.net
    fashion in belgium

  • Raquel

    J.W. AndersOn

    • Leandra Medine

      Whoops! Mistake. Fixing now. Thanks for catching.

  • Claire and the Frog

    Thank you for this small recap ! My favourites are most definitely Critstopher Kane (as usual in fact) and Peter Pilotto, I love what I see and it’s inspiring.

    My fashion blog

  • http://www.restlessblonde.blogspot.com/ Paulina

    Well. that’s true what you say. These two cities are totally different. But I think each of them has its own power.

    I love Mulberry and Top Shop Unique collections! And Burberry Prorsum – the show was amazing!

    I really like your blog. This is a reasonable approach to fashion – you comment it while you really have something to say :)

    http://www.restlessblonde.blogspot.com.

  • Belén Cavas Hernández

    Really good selection. Do you want to know the proposed of Madrid fashion week fall 2013??? You can link on my blog. Today new outfit.

    http://iwanttobeavoguette.blogspot.com.es/2013/02/aztec-print.html

  • Belén Cavas Hernández
  • Oreeille

    Hello my amazing guru! I need your help big times! I will be a maid of honor on my best friends wedding and I want to transform my everyday manrepelling style to this wedding occasion. Theme is yellow. Any tips? Greatly appreciated, as I usually only do everyday life street fashion and I feel a bit lost.

  • Ana

    Peter Pilotto is surprising me in a good way, i really like the collection

    http://strawberryleopard.blogspot.pt/

  • http://lottiekerr.blogspot.co.uk/ Lottie Kerr

    I loved the Topshop collection and Cara is just a goddess in human form!
    http://lottiekerr.blogspot.co.uk

  • rut

    Hola, me gustaría que vieras mi blog de moda http://intheseboots.wordpress.com/ . Lo acabo de crear y estoy muy ilusioanda.

  • rute
  • Nicole Herrera

    I really really like your blog leandra u are very inspirational and give women the right ideas about themselve and about what fashion is all about. I respect the wirters you invite since they share most of your thoughts and points of view I think u are and amazin writer and I am really happy to be a huge fan!!! besos!!

  • B.

    JW Anderson I always want to wear, and not because I want to be photographed, but because this collection makes looking chic look so damn easy. If I happen to photograph myself in his clothes for my blog, that’s only because I want to capture myself looking “effortlessly chic,” because I almost always want to give off that vibe.

    brittiish.blogspot.com

  • SC

    Hi i was wondering what is your take on paris fashion week vs. new york fashion week. i thought this article was intriguing since many of us don’t get to feel the whole vibe of different fashion weeks.

  • http://twitter.com/Idiosyncracie Mathé Kamsutchom

    Completely taken by Mulberry and the coats at Peter Pilotto! You are wonderful, your posts make my day. http://idiosyncracie.com

  • http://ravenmaidenmaven.blogspot.com/ Lydia Teo

    You have the best Fashion Show summaries ever! And, my heart jumped into my throat when I saw the pointed toe flats from Erdem! TO DIE FOR!

    ravenmaidenmaven.blogspot.com

  • Em

    Christopher Kane makes me tingle in the best way possible. How is he able to detail outfits so uniquely for each collection? It’s almost like I’m discovering a new designer each season but it’s always him. /love story

    xoxo, Em
    http://stylebydirtywater.blogspot.com

  • Rose Marie

    Loved the Christopher Kane collection – as always. The feather trims were awesome, made my heart flutter

    http://theroseandherclothes.blogspot.co.uk/

  • http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/ Newborn Fanatic

    your fashion week commentaries are awesome! describe it in the best way possible! that being said…the collections are all so beatiful!

    http://newbornfanatic.wordpress.com/

  • Shawnee Rajala

    Harry Styles? Officially envious. Swooned over your vine vid.

  • Amal

    Tom Ford is THE KING!!!