Sweeping theme of New York Fashion Week: white show openers. But leave it to Alexander Wang to embrace the white, deconstruct it, put it back together, and produce the right shoes. Define right however you please, this is the exact “sandal boot,” fashion has been waiting for. Considering the influx of barely there makeup and casual messy hair, a sticker strip running through the hair lines of his models seemed a novel idea.
And novel it was–the strips on the blonde girls glowed in the dark–the photo at right depicts the end of show, pre-finale, when the music went down and the clothes began to glow. See what Scott Schuman was able to capture here. See also, Jen Kao.
And as for the clothes, bermuda shorts, cut aways, very little transition black and white to virtually anything else. At second photo left, find a helmet/baseball cap hybrid hat that so perfectly had the model emulating a human blow dryer. I overheard a couple buyers talking about the collection and the consensus was a very definitive “buyable, sellable, perfect.” There you have it, folks.
Over at Milk Studios, Ostwald Hegalson showed his spring collection. A continuation from Fall, these are perhaps the skirts that most editor dreams are made of. I am particularly keen on that dinosaur and the combination of a geometric pink and red.
Then there was Tibi. It’s interesting to watch a collection become the sartorial version of its designer. Yes, I do believe this is one chocful of bits Amy Smilovic will swear by. It seems this collection becomes more minimal with each approaching season. I couldn’t help think new classic upon watching the pale blue, white and black wildly modern (but only in the same way 90s classics are,) silhouettes walk on by. Per that stomach, I suppose it’s ab time.
The king of mid-length skirts continued to hold throne yesterday at Derek Lam. It was interesting to see a collection play with conventionally fall-appropriate colors and dub them ideal spring wear. Somewhat refreshing, really. The cropped over-sized trench at left will likely render wildy useful and the bare-patent-midriff at right is more at speed with women who don’t engage in hourly pilates courses. Per the shoes, one of each please and thanks.
Ah, Thakoon. I’m elated to see layers making their fantastical comeback and a pseudo-homage to his Spring 2010 collection. That combination of sheer lilac and white wasn’t exploited at all enough during its predeceasing season.
Sunday closed just after Zac Posen at Tommy Hilfiger. Both iconic American designers held their shows outdoors–the former at Lincoln Center and Hilfiger on The Highline. At Zac, a star studded front row and model line-up (Naomi Campbell, Isabelli Fontana, Lindsay Wixson, Joan Smalls, Hilary Rhoda, Coco Rocha,) almost made paying attention to the clothes a bit difficult. Well, not really, the abundance of embroidery, appliques, mermaid silhouettes and formal bustiers left most of the audience out of breath. And when Coco closed? “Dead.”
At Tommy Hilfiger, I sat next to his awesome-ass daughter, Ali. We collectively gushed over the striped suits, glorified pajamas with structure . “Never enough,” she said, I agreed. And for the tent dress, you can’t see it now but this is the sort of garment made for repellers like us and the girl more concerned with general sexiness too–the entire back is bare, open and adorned by gold cross straps. There is an air of pride that comes with all of Hilfiger’s shows. Maybe it’s the quintessential cable knit, maybe it’s the choice of colorway but no matter the situation, I can’t help leave his venue proud to be American.
Yes, I went there.