Walking up 8th Avenue yesterday, Nylon’s Dani Stahl said something very refreshing, “I appreciate fashion week for what it is. I don’t hate it, I enjoy it, we’re lucky.” It was invigorating to hear an industry vet celebrate instead of put down the maniacal tendencies of the week. That said though, they are fantastically maniacal. Here, we jump head first into them.
Jen Kao set up her runway in circular formation. As Susie Lao (Style Bubble,) put it: “perhaps UFOs will descend upon us?” They didn’t, but glow in the dark laden models certainly did. This collection was an interesting transformation from a more bondage appropriate, dark place. It almost felt like Kao had made the conscious decision to move herself from the hip and grungy downtown locales and ultimately decide to show at The New York Public Library as a testament to the change. The collection felt a little bit tron, a whole lot lady who “gets it” even though most others don’t. Highlights included copious baseball caps, more exposed nipple, longer hemlines, and bungee chord strapped wood-heeled shoes. The look at left, you see, that’s my look.
Before Jen Kao though, there was Sally LaPointe and Yigal Azrouel. At LaPointe’s show, I found myself seated next to none other than Bergdorf Goodman’s own, Linda Fargo. We collectively gushed about the sublimity of a runway collection that renders wearable and yet still high brow. I was particularly impressed by the spring appropriate layering tactics as perfectly demonstrated at left. Shortly thereafter at Yigal Azrouel (right,) athletic nuns taught a story that mandated the mere notion that looser is always better.
‘Twas a season of change for Rebecca Minkoff too. The quintessential “minkette” has grown up, taken cues from the professionals around her and come back as a really hip tomboy with an affinity for ready-to-wear, doing it better than the predecessors had done it.
Meanwhile, at Rag & Bone, Marcus and David continue to hold the throne for coolest, most culturized contemporary brand. There’s just something about stepping into a Wainright/Neville crafted something and the notion of knowing that you’ll own whatever room you choose to walk into. The cool girls this season are wearing layered pin stripes and tap shorts adorned by lace accents (left,) neon green in tea length formation (center,) over-sized t shirts with over-sized pants (right,) and across-the-board badass shoes.
At Helmut Lang, a departure from the typical monochromatic drapery is celebrated and new prints, fabrics, silhouettes and, gasp, color dominates the show. I had the opportunity to step into the Helmut Lang showroom a couple days before showtime and meet the designers. It was suite stimulating to see a mood board consisting of only kaleidoscopic designs (constructed for the show, by the way, by the designers’ favorite tattoo artist,) and an arrary of interesting sea creatures. At far left, please find “my look.”
Meanwhile at Suno: Something about Mary hair, muted colors and an entire collection fit for nothing but the most advanced repeller. That gown at left, it struck heart chords I didn’t know existed.
The Friday highlights though (aside from the Peter Som show at large,) were indubitably the final walks at Rebecca Minkoff (see: Hilary Rhoda at left…and the band Tennis playing alongside DJ Mick Boogie,) and Rag & Bone, (see: Karlie Kloss at right.) I’ll be back. Happy Saturday.
One more summoning for the cheap seats in the back: don’t forget to follow Manstagram for real time updates.