Another Day, Another Round Up

Leandra Medine | February 15, 2012
It’s been entertaining to watch spankin’ new collections walk and learn first hand from the designers behind these threads, the inspiration, thoughtfulness and appreciation that goes into crafting every garment but holy fashion week, I won’t be sad to see you go. Today in round up number five, we look to the delectable offerings of Wednesday sprinkled over a whole lot o’Tuesday. The buzz word this season: mature, is still being thrown around. And with more boxy silhouettes, metallic accents, overwhelming fur, longer skirts, higher boots and a general reversion to a place of pump still circulating, it’s a wonder how all designers just…know. Starting at Rodarte:

If you’d shown this collection to me, designer blind folded, I don’t think I’d have known it was Rodarte. Until, that is, the hand print gown would have appeared. Few can successfully string charm into their collections while maintaining a level of seriousness that doesn’t border on he ha ho, kitsch. The wearability evident here is something the Mulleavy sisters rarely contemplate so it was nice to see a selection of garments fit for the modern woman, period. While you can’t see it now, the shoes had real life sand perpetuating in their heels. Sand people, a piece of the beach to go.

Michael Kors seemed like an ode to 1970s lumberjack-hunter glam. Funny thing about this hunter, she evidently wears her prey. I don’t typically like to spotlight a collection that pays close attention to fur but it’s hard to ignore the silhouettes surrounding. A crochet pencil skirt paired with short sleeve blouse, blet creating makeshift peplum, a red gown and matching red coat, striped blanket skirt ready for DIY and a tribute to plaid–one print I will never grow old embracing. It was perhaps my favorite Kors collection yet.

And at Oscar de la Renta, smirking models bounced down the 583 Park harvested runway. The collection progressed from slim fit pants, skirt suits, embellishments and some stray feathers to runway engulfing party dresses and gowns fit for fairies, princesses–mystical creatures of that sort.

Downtown at Pier 57 where Diesel Black Gold showed, the team graciously provided heating lamps, which made consuming this collection far more enjoyable. Low rise cropped pants, oversized silhouettes, distressed leather and ankle strap laden shoes kept the clothes on par with the major themes of fashion week. I was particularly partial toward the look at left. Recent evidence will suggest capri pants may leave our ankles cold come next fall.

And on to Sachin & Babi, where the designers–a husband/wife duo–previewed their first runway show ever. This collection seemed on page with aforementioned designers stepping a bit out their comfort zones. Sachin and Babi explored a different design tactic pulling more prevalently from a darker color palette comprised mainly of navy, deep purple and black. The collection rendered a new sort of sexy: slits up the thigh, sheer blouses, leather inclusions, while still maintaining it’s man repeller mystique: note the feathers, high waist.

And finally, at J. Mendel. The photo pit found itself busy even before the show started with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in attendance, but once it did star, all eyes were back on runway. An array of winter whites, tights et al left collective gasps in the room. Gowns were shown in hues of mustard and hunter green clad in unconventional embroidery and the expected lush fur accents. An interesting use of gold, too. Now, if you can think as far back as the first runway recap, you will probably notice an apparent change in tone. I am tired, friends. And if I have to write the word peplum one more time I may cut all ten fingers off the physically enable the action. That said, I love you. Happy Wednesday.